Sunday, June 6, 2004


Heavenly trek in Garhwal Himalayas

A calm destination in the Himalayas, the Bhagirathi Valley is an ideal getaway to beat the heat and enjoy nature’s bounty, says Tarun K. Roy

Gangotri  town is dotted with deodar and pine trees.
Gangotri town is dotted with deodar and pine trees. — Photo by the writer

BHAGIRATHI valley is a tranquil and scenic destination in the heart of the Gahrwal Himalayas, blessed with the holy river Bhagirathi, enchanting white-water streams, snow-clad high mountains, milky glaciers, crystal-clear lakes, conifer forests and alpine meadows. Natural beauty infuses the spirit of pilgrims, adventurers, mountaineers, explorers, nature lovers and trekkers.

Gangotri is a picturesque, small town in the Bhagirathi valley, 3,200 metres above sea level amidst captivating conifer forests of deodar and pines at the confluence of the river Bhagirathi and Kedar Ganga. It is one of the most pious four Himalayan Hindu holy shrines.

According to legend, Raja Bhagirath meditated here and Goddess Ganga—the daughter of heaven, assumed the form of a river to absolve the sins of King Bhagirath’s predecessors, following a penance of several centuries. Lord Shiva received her into his matted locks to minimise the immense impact of her fall. Later, Pandavas came here to perform the Deva Yagna. It was General Amar Singh Thapa of the Gorkha Regiment constructed the Gangotri Temple in the 18th century on the banks of the Bhagirathi.

Beginning from Gaumukh, the valley ends at Gangotri after 18km. The Bhagirathi passes through the heart of the valley along the right bank of the river. The more one treks up, there is a splendid view of the snow-clad mountains. At the distance of nine km from Gangotri, the trek passes through Chirbas – the forest of stately pines at the height of 3,400 m across the Chirbas Nala (stream). The enchanting view of the Bhagirathi massif appears in front. Further on the trek passes through birch or Bhojpatra forests. The bark of the birch (locally known as Bhojpatra) was used as natural paper for writing in the earlier days. The trek passes through Bhojbas, at the height of 3,792 m. The view of Mt. Manda on the right and Mt. Shivling and Bhagirathi massif appears in front over the Gangotri glacier. The GMVN Tourists Rest House, Private Rest House, Tent House and Ashram are located for night halt. The trek between late summer and autumn becomes a heavenly path with natural growth of alpine vegetation and colourful wild flowers.

The trek ends at Gaumukh at the height of 3,892 metres above sea level. A dark, icy snout of the Gangotri glacier and the source of Bhagirathi, 18 km from Gangotri, Gaumukh means "cow’s mouth". As the snout of the glacier looks like a cow’s mouth so it is popularly known Gaumukh. The pilgrims come here to take a holy dip in the icy water. For treks beyond this place, trekkers require to be physically fit and be equipped with appropriate clothing, food and camping gear for a night halt. They should also get acclimatised to avoid high-altitude sickness.

Gaumukh onwards there is no permanent track over the Gangotri glacier which is the third longest glacier in India. About 5 km arduous glacier and a mountainous trek leads to Nandanvan at the height of 4,337 metres on the right bank across the glacier—a huge green alpine meadow at the confluence of Chaturangi and Gangotri glacier, at the base of Mt. Bhagirathi. Camping at Nandanvan is a heavenly experience for trekkers. It’s an enchanting alpine meadow with a small stream flowing through it. During late summer and monsoon, natural green carpets with brilliantly colourful alpine flowers cover the alpine meadows. A majestic view of the snow-capped Mt. Shivling, Mt. Kedardome, Mt. Kharchakund, Mt. Sumeru and Mt. Manda is seen from here.

About five km horizontally across the Gangotri glacier, one can reach Tapovan, on the left bank of the glacier at the height of 4,400 metres, is another huge lush green tranquil alpine meadow with a flowing stream, at the base of Mt. Shivling – the abode of Lord Shiva. A panoramic view of the snow-clad mountainous ranges—Sudershan, Bhagirathi and Chaturangi are seen from here. Wild herds of blue sheep or bharal are encountered here.

Trekkers may visit the magnificent high-altitude glacial lake ‘Vasukital’ at the base of Mt. Vasuki Parbat (5,000 metres above sea level). It is a five-kilometre-long gradual trek from Nandanvan, along the lateral moraine of Chaturangi glacier. A splendid view of mounts Shivling, Bhrigupanth and Meru is seen from Vasukital. The reflection of mount Chaturangi and Vasuki Parbat on the placid lake is spectacular.

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