FOOD TALK
Savour the flavour of summer specials
Pushpesh Pant

THE Sanskrit poet Kalidasa had got it right in his classic Ritusamhar. With the advent of summer the sun is scorching and the body and mind yearn for all things cold. He paints evocative pictures of beautiful maidens applying sandalwood paste to their ample bosoms and waiting for the night to frolic in moonlit pools. Of course, food is farthest from their and our thoughts.

However, we neglect nourishment when the mercury shoots up at our own peril. Ayurveda divides the different months of the year into two categories – grahan and adaan – those that sap our energy and those that gift us with vim and vigour. One doesn’t have to think hard regarding where to place summer. It also tells us that different ingredients of food have inherent properties or guna—hot or cold – that can help us cope with the vagaries of weather. Inclusion of what are described as coolants, refrigerants and rehydrants in our daily diet can help us beat the heat. The list mentions mint, coriander, yoghurt, unripe mangoes and fruits like bael.

While it is true that there is no tradition of cold cuts or salad meals in India there is no dearth of native summer delights. The repertoire is not confined to sherbets and kulfis.

Muhammad Farouk, a master chef from Lucknow, introduced us to the delights of dal shikora and khameeri roti in Lucknow. In this summer repast, light arhar dal with just a hint of kacchi amiya in it is set in a shallow earthen pot like a phirnee and enjoyed cold. To add a little zing there is the chatni rahat jaan. The recipe for this ‘lifesaver’ can be changed according to personal taste, what is essential is not to leave out elements that are a must for ‘oral rehydration’—salt, sugar and a little lime juice/unripe mango/anardana.

Down south, this is the season to indulge in tair sadam. Looks can be deceptive – what looks like plain curd rice requires considerable skill to assemble if perfection is aspired for. The tarka with mustard, whole red chilies and curry leaves is what makes this one dish meal mouth watering. A slice of tangy pickle to let the gastric juices flow and who can complain of lack of appetite?

There is no reason for the diehard carnivores to lose heart. If you cant do without your kukkad and mutton shutton, this is the time to try out unfamiliar delicacies. Dalcha from Hyderabad is an easy-to-digest dish that does not compromise on taste or try the khatta murgh (supremes of chicken packed with mint-laced hung yoghurt) a recipe specially devised for the debilitating summer.

In Rajasthan, the Rajput princes have traditionally served dahi samonse ka mans (mince filled gujiya draped in spice yoghurt) wonderfully refreshing and addictive. You can spare your self the trouble of rolling out the dough for the samosa or gujiya and experiment with ‘non-veg’ dahi vada. Steamed shammi kebab can be easily substituted for the urad or mung vada.

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