On top of the world, looking down on creation

LAHAUL and Spiti. Spiti stems from two words Sa Piti, literally meaning, the country (Sa) of Piti river (Spiti). Not many people know the meaning and origin of the words- Similarly, the Spiti and upper Lahaulis call themselves La-Yul-Mis, the folks from the god’s land. The word Lahouli, Spiti, Laddhakhi and Tibetan seemed to have come from Lah, which means mountain, peak or pass. Mountains command great reverence in theregion.

The villagers are in sync with their environment and have a tradition of hospitality

Reaching Spiti

A day long Delhi-Manali bus or taxi journey; or a two-hour Delhi-Bhuntar flight, and one is at the sprawling riverside Manali town, enjoying the sylvan environs and the surrounding peaks and meadows. From Manali, one goes driving through 13,050 feet high alpine Rohtang Pass. Between Rohtang and Kunzom Pass are rich riverscapes, snow-capped Himalayan mountain views, and exciting glimpses of the gigantic Bara Shigri glacier’s north-eastern tip; and several oasis camping sites: tiny streams meandering along the feet of high mountains, cutting neatly through grassy patches, as if designed by an imaginative landscape architect. Kunzom Pass, abode of Kunzom Lahmo, a female deity, is around 4,551 metres above sea level.

The journey beyond Kunzom transports you to poetic heights. You are suddenly moving towards a startling world of denuded and artistically contrasted mountain ranges. ‘The end of the habitable world’, a poetic expression used by, an early foreign travellers, Penelope, to describe the Kulu valley, highlights a foreigner’s limitations in understanding places and people they explore. She did not realise that the awe-inspiring trans-Himalayan ranges in their oasis valleys had unique habitats for human beings as well as the wild.

In The Pin Valley National Park, Chhumurti horses are available for a ride. — Photos by the writer

As the first village of Spiti valley, Losar is an eye-catcher. Settled on the left bank of Spiti river, on a moraine formation with drainage, it has the typical appearance of villages found in Tibet, Ladakh and Lahaul. Symmetrical rectangular earthen houses, uniform in their chaste white outer walls, green window frames, with drawings in maroon or brown paints, sun-facing, neat and clean, over-looking the fields-the village is a glimpse of a unique world that Spiti is.

Spiti is a minuscule civilisation whose spatial and spiritual existence in real and symbolic terms are so intermingled that not only the valley draws its name from the main river, but also most of its tributary valleys and villages are named after their rivers. This river, along its 130 km course, is joined by around 11 tributary streams on the right bank and 13 on the left bank.

Enriching experience

The simple, receptive, god-fearing and hospitable inhabitants have a magnetic appeal. A tourist, Indian or a foreigner, finds it bewitching. The highly civilised and sophisticated language, the enriching behaviour, the spontaneity in their love for collective celebration and penchant for singing, dancing and merry making, egalitarian outlook of life endear Spiti to tourists in a big way.

Spiti is an important plank of the monastic travel circuit of India-Kulu-Lahaul-Spiti-Kinnaur and Leh. Spiti is a sanctum-sanctorum of ancient Lamaist Buddhist monasteries. Mane, Dhankar, Tabo, Gungri, Mud, Lidang, Rangrik, Key, Losar and Hikkim have the best of them. The most important of them is the Key Monastery, the abode of Lochen Tulku. A reincarnate spiritual institution, the Lochen Tulku is held high in Spiti’s spiritual traditions.

Tabo Gompa

Tabo monastery, true to its Himalayayan Ajanta image, has rare palette, style richness, and presence of the Buddhist Pantheon in its 9 temples, 23 chortens, and chambers for monks and nuns. Its ever glowing wall-paintings, and stuccos-reveal Buddhist teachings, and depict tales from the Buddha’s previous’ and immediate lives. The three-dimensional stucco images, 33 in number, fixed to the walls of the Lah Khang (Assembly hall) are unique works of craftsmanship and form the vajra mandala. The kind of rich and lasting palette created in earth-colour wall paintings speak of excellence of temple art and architecture in this valley. The highlight of the Assembly hall is the four-fold Vairochana, who is considered one of the five spiritual sons of the Abibuddha, the primordial Buddha.

Demul village is one of the greenest regions in Spiti. At 4,300 metres above sea level, with a towering Chocho Kangnyilda peak against its backdrop, Demul is a dreamy village about 25km from Kaza. Situated in a sun-facing, crescent-shaped mountain plank-this village suddenly appears like a shock of white-washed houses. A harmonious settlement, its surroundings are replete with alpine flora and fauna, and marine life fossil. It is an ideal village tourism site.

The Pin Valley National Park is an ideal wildlife tourism spot with a transit camp accommodation at Mud Farka, and bunkers. Chhumurti horses are available for a ride. Two to three days’ travel in the Park under the guidance of the forest guides should be enough for sighting an ibex. Wildlife Census, 1999-2000, put the animal population of Pin Valley National Park and Kibber Sanctuary 12,245, including 508 snow ibex in the Pin valley.

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