Colours of Rathore’s Rajputana

SUAVE and genteel, Raghavendra Rathore from the royal lineage of Jodhpur synthesises the best of the East and West in his creations, ranging from haute couture to designer chocolates. Rathore continues to derive inspiration from the colourful land of the Rajputs despite living in the US for 11 years, finds Rashmi Kushwaha in an interview with the fashion icon.

My only asset is the aesthetics I picked up while growing up. My mother had an eye for detail and was very particular about everything — from the gleam on a table, the placement of a time-piece to respect for the elders. These are reflected in the elegance of my designs.

I grew up in the corridors of the janana (female) section of the house where no men were allowed. This exposed me to a rich variety of colour and clothing. I remember watching the buttons being prepared for my father’s achkan. The mystery and confusion of rich colours, which is a part of day-to-day life in Rajasthan, has influenced me. And more than anything, inspiration is influence. Like a sponge, you can absorb and expel it on a piece of paper to create ideas. Every collection I prepare begins with a homage to my land.

Whatever the prices, people who cater to the bridge price points (between the designer and ready-to-wear, lines) are unlikely to have any resistance. Some stigma will always be attached to fashion. The trick is to have many facets — one division catering to the upper-end and others for various categories. As advertising moves on and we are bombarded with ads, people continue to become more conscious about their looks. A designer needs to understand how to calibrate with it. Whenever you see an opportunity, you must adapt, and this applies to the fashion industry also.

I have entered into a 50:50 joint venture with Shopper’s Stop for a co-branded pret line, which will focus more on the masses. I will provide the design and concept, while Shopper’s Stop will take care of the manufacturing and retail aspects. Initially, we’ll begin with women’s evening wear and then move on to men’s wear. The line will be available in the price range of Rs 500-1500 by mid-June in Shopper’s Stop’s 14 outlets across the country.

My line is celebrating the global Indian woman and I am bringing colours to the forefront. It is an international look. The inspiration is simplicity of the Indian colour palette and USP is the fabric from Benaras. I am bringing in skirts, strongly inspired by Claudia Schiffer whom I saw some time back with Nelson Mandela in South Africa on a fund-raising mission. In her A-line blue skirt and tunic, Claudia lent colour to the parched landscape of that country. She appeared very global in the skirt she had picked up from Rajasthan. I have restructured the look – it’s a happy look without any sadness. The range is priced between Rs 2,000 and Rs 15,000.

The most important trend for winters will be height; high shoes, accessories will be prominent. People will be more health conscious and as health gets in, clothes will highlight good fits. I foresee a more sophisticated look by the end of the year. The skirt will be a festive look for winters and the colours will move to darker tones by year-end.

I have grown up in a joint family where kitchen is the second most important room in the household after the meditation room. I remember my mother catering pretty well to the needs of the family. And then, fashion and cooking are so similar. There are no boundaries and the fun is in creating something new out of nothing.

I was driving through Rajasthan for ideas for my collection. During a trip to a museum in Bikaner, I came across a note, written in 1920 by a French chef, requesting for a decision on the evening dessert and the menu made was Indo-French, including chocolates.

The names in the menu drew inspiration from the royal ambience. Way back in 1920s, if chocolates could be inspired by the royalty, then why not today? It is just an attempt to rejuvenate the past.

My long term strategy is to provide for everybody. I want to cater to a buyer going to Shopper’s Stop as well as a client who wants a designer outfit. Aspirational values are being redefined. From the strength of khadi to the craftsmanship of artisans, I want to bring everything classic to the forefront.

— TWF