Soaking in the peace of Pachmarhi
Sujoy Dhar

MADHYA Pradesh Tourism’s brochure describes Pachmarhi as a verdant jewel where nature has found exquisite expressions in myriad enchanting ways. What overcomes a tourist visiting the place is its sheer tranquility, with the plateau hemmed by the mountains with its trees, open fields and red soil.

As you venture down the rugged mountain slopes, the hidden falls and the forests of this Satpura range Mahadeo Hills, it turns into a journey down to the age of Mahabharata. Among the numerous falls in the mountains, you get to see where Draupadi had bathed. And then in the same breath, the tourist guide tells you that these are the falls where Kareena Kapoor gyrated to the tunes of A R Rahman in Ashoka. And in between the fast forwards from Draupadi to Kareena you can travel back a century to learn that the falls are also the ones where the British womenused to bath. The British developed Pachmarhi as a resort and their influence is embodied in its churches and colonial architecture.

Pachmarhi is indeed Madhya Pradesh’s jewel. Green shades embrace the mountains, and everywhere is heard the gentle murmur of flowing water. Bridle paths lead into tranquil forest glades; groves of wild bamboo and jamun, dense sal forests and delicate bamboo thickets.

The valley, ravines and maze of gorges, sculpted in red sandstone by the wind and weather, add their own colour to this palette of shades, and cascading waterfalls flash silver in the sunshine. Deep azure pools are hidden delights and fascinating glimpses of the animal and bird kingdoms delight wildlife enthusiasts.

Complementing the magnificence of nature are the works of man; Pachmarhi is also an archaeological treasure-house. In cave shelters in the Mahadeo Hills is an astonishing richness in rock paintings. Most of these have been placed in the period 500 to 800 AD, but the earliest paintings are estimated to be 10,000 years old.

A popular point in Panchmari is the Pandav Caves. Five ancient dwellings excavated in the sand-stone rock in a low hill, Pachmarhi derives its name from these caves which, as the legend goes, once provided sanctuary to the five Pandav brothers. These caves are now protected monuments though the railings and artificial beautification around the caves robs away much of the ancient beauty of the place.

While the numerous falls are the chief attractions of the place, an uphill return trek from those lovely masterpieces of nature is often too arduous. Duchess Fall is one such spot. While it is easy to climb down, as you climb up for the return journey you realise that no great experience comes free in life. So be prepared for a real adventure.

Also not to be missed in Panchmari is the sunrise from Dhoopgarh, the highest point in the Satpura range, with a magnificent view of the surrounding ranges. A very popular spot for viewing the sunset, as the day dawns before your eyes as you stand on the edge of some precariously placed rock, you are transported to a world which is quite exotic. The bushes in the rocky mountain slopes are not what we get to see commonly in India.

If you are lucky enough you can also spot a bison or may be even a full herd.

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