SITES AND SCENES: Pushkar
A kaleidoscope of Rajasthan
Sunil Kumar

Camel sellers come in large numbers at the Pushkar fair

Rajasthan, the land synonymous with romance and chivalry, offers visitors a kaleidoscope of natural, historical and architectural beauty. The 3.4 lakh sq km of its topography presents varied sites. Some of the places are unique in themselves and even a single visit to these places leaves a lasting impression on the minds of visitors, wiping out the notion that the state only offers sights of arid land with scarce vegetation and water. Pushkar is one such enchanting place.

The tiny tranquil town lies 11 km north-east of Ajmer and 130 km from Jaipur. From Ajmer, a serpentine road through hills leads to Pushkar. Some spots on the way present such beautiful scenes that it is hard to resist the temptation of stopping there and gazing at nature’s beauty.

As one reaches Pushkar, one feels relieved to have come far from the noisy environment of the city. Presence of water bodies, hills, good vegetation and sand dunes make this place special. The town, which is an important pilgrimage centre for the Hindus, lies at the edge of the desert. It is surrounded by hills on the three sides and sand dunes on the fourth. The Nag Paharis or the snake mountains form a natural boundary between Ajmer and Pushkar. It has the picturesque Pushkar Lake, which is sacred to the Hindus. As mythology goes, once Brahma decided to have a place in his name on the earth. He threw a lotus flower on the earth. Parts of the flower fell at three places from where holy water sprang out. These places are now known as Jyestha Pushkar (senior Pushkar), Madhya Pushkar (middle Pushkar) and Kanistha Pushkar (junior Pushkar). As these lakes were created due to Lord Brahma’s throwing a padma pushp (lotus flower) from His kar (hand), the place got the name Pushkar. It is said the place is dear to Lord Brahma and anybody who takes a holy dip at Pushkar Lake during the last five days in the shukla paksha (including purnima) of Kartik month gets absolved of his sins.

The lake at Jyestha Pushkar has 52 ghats where pilgrims take a holy dip. These were constructed by different kings and emperors. Of these, Gau Ghat, Vajra Ghat and Brahma Ghat are more famous. Hundreds of temples line the banks of the lake, but it is the Brahma temple that stands out. This eighth-century temple is said to be the only temple of Lord Brahma in India. It is, however, not known who constructed this temple. The temple has idols of Lord Brahma and Goddess Gayatri, his second wife. The present idol of Lord Brahma is not the original one. Aurangzeb had destroyed it during his rule. A new idol was installed by a Brahmin woman, Phoondi Bai.

Although tourists visit Pushkar throughout the year, the small town gets transformed into a spectacular fair ground during the annual Pushkar Fair held in October-November every year. It attracts nearly four lakh people from India and abroad. The popularity of the fair can be gauged from the fact that foreign nationals turn up in huge numbers to witness a melange of activities, quintessence of rural Rajasthan.

Thousands of tourists from the UK, the USA, England, Israel and many other countries land at Pushkar to witness a riot of cultural, religious and commercial activities and, of course, to enjoy the scenic beauty of the desert.

Earlier, the fair was held during the last five days in the shukla paksha (including purnima) of Kartik month, but keeping in view the influx of tourists, its duration has been increased. This year it was held from November 1 to 9 with the last five days witnessing the maximum activity.

The fair means different things to different people: it is the ultimate pilgrimage for the religious minded, a mega bazaar for camel traders, a festive place for the local people to rejoice together with abandon, and an unforgettable and not-to-be-missed experience for tourists.

Livestock trading is one of the main attractions of this fare. In fact, it is considered to be the world’s largest camel trade fare. Camel traders from rural areas far and wide come to Pushkar with their humped beasts in the hope of making money. Buyers also wait for the fair to strike a good deal. Over 50,000 camels amble their way across the golden sand to reach Pushkar for the fair. Out of these, more than half get sold. While some buyers purchase camels for agricultural and transportation purposes, others make transactions simply to make profits. The camel traders pitch small tents on sand dunes and tie their cattle nearby. Cattle are untied in the wee hours and taken to nearby green areas for grazing. A nearby pond fulfils the need for water.

Slowly the entire open space gets cramped with animals and within no time commercial activity takes over. Buyers thoroughly examine cattle before striking a deal. A young camel fetches more price than an old one to the seller. Besides camels, horses and bullocks are also traded here. One can buy a camel anywhere between Rs 3,000 and Rs 25,000, while the price of a good horse hovers around Rs 60,000. However, there is no limit to the price of good cattle.

While cattle traders are busy striking deals, persons selling decorative items for cattle waste no time in approaching cattle buyers. A number of big stalls are set up in the main bazaar for selling reins, saddles and other items.

The entire town becomes a cultural phenomenon where colourfully dressed devotees, musicians, acrobats, folk dancers, traders, comedians, sadhus and tourists converge during the fair. Rows of makeshift stalls display an entire range of products: from handicraft and camel leather items to daily utility stuff. Stalls selling Rajasthani cuisine also do brisk business. Camel rides are also famous among tourists.

The Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation (RTDC) takes care of all arrangements at the fair, including accommodation for the tourists. Being a small township with a population of a few thousand, managing a gathering running into lakhs is a big task. The RTDC and private parties provide tented accommodation to tourists, which can be booked in advance. But these get exhausted soon and people have to look out for accommodation elsewhere. Even the verandahs of houses are let out. Those who can’t manage an accommodation of their choice don’t mind driving back to Ajmer for night stay. They are back at Pushkar in the morning for another day of fun and enjoyment.

Making tourists participate in the festivities remains high on the organisers’ agenda. The mela ground remains the centre of cultural activities. Several competitions are organised in which local players and visitors test each others’ skills. Foreigners show more interest in participating in these contests. Although from countries where the climate remains generally cold, they don’t mind sweating it out in the football field or trying their hands at breaking earthen pots in the matki phod contest.

The evening brings an opportunity to have a glimpse of Rajasthani culture through various shows presented by local artistes. Visitors can be seen trying a few dance steps with professional dancers. The cultural feast goes on till night, spreading joy everywhere.