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Sunday, September 28, 2003
Books

Bombay, sweet and sour
Gitanjali Sharma

Bombay, meri jaan: Writings on Mumbai
Edited by Jerry Pinto and Naresh Fernandes. Penguin Books. Page 348. Rs 395.

A still from a photo essay by Chirodeep Chaudhuri
A still from a photo essay by Chirodeep Chaudhuri

AS you go through the introduction by Jerry Pinto and Naresh Fernandes to this anthology on Mumbai, these words arrest you: "Why would you live in a matchbox, breathe bad air, drink foul water? Because Bombay is an addiction, it isn't good for you but you need the high neon and insomnia, concrete and opportunity."

The word "addiction" stays in your mind as you begin with the first writing, which is a poem by Nissim Ezekiel on the Manhattan look-alike. Before you reach the last line, you again find traces of this addiction: Sometimes I cry for help/ but mostly keep my own counsel/`85I cannot leave the island/ I was born here and belong.

By the time you are onto the second chapter — an exhaustive piece by Pico Iyer on Bombay, aptly dubbed in the social context as the Capital of Hope and in the economic framework as the country's Capital of Capital — you not only begin to fathom what this addiction is all about but also find yourself getting ensnared to read more and more about this "richest and most corrupt" metropolis in the subcontinent.

This anthology, which comprises poems, prose, photographs and even a comic strip and play, unfolds a series of images about the wonders and horrors of this city. A varied mix, akin to the famous bhelpuri of the island!

 


There's never a dull moment as you acquaint yourself better with this slum-strewn and skyscraper-saturated city, which holds more than 12 million people, half of whom are homeless. Going back and forth in time, you touch upon both serious and non-serious issues. The contributions, which come from a distinguished list of eminent litterateurs, some of them foreigners, journalists and social activists like V. S. Naipaul, Salman Rushdie, Jeremy Seabrook, Behram Contractor and Saadat Manto, take the shape of memoirs, impressions, or seriously analysed studies and observations of a city they have long been associated with. A few write-ups, like those by Pico Iyer and Khushwant Singh, interestingly and informatively, present the complete flavour of the city, commenting on its physical attributes, social and cultural aspects like its heterogeneous mix of races and linguistic groups "which have little affection for one another" and it economic attractiveness " for outsiders who hope to make their fortunes here."

The majority of the contributors however touch upon a singular subject or incident — the comparison of city with Paris or the experiences of a single woman living in a chawl or the jazz culture of the sixties or the dwindling number of cotton mills or the dying notes of the Bhendibazar Gharana or the babudom at its best or the reminiscences of a Parsi woman or the observation of Muharram by Shia Irani Muslims or the rise of the Shiv Sena or the mafia culture which is "100 times worse than that depicted in Satya" — , laying bare more of Mumbai and its myriad forms.

Each piece of the anthology presents Mumbai in its varied hues and shades and captures it from all possible angles. Manto's piece on the scandalous affairs of Sitara, the dancer from Nepal, is not only engaging but also freezes for you the spicy goings-on in the film world in the 1940s.

The anthology besides giving you a peep of the Bombay of yore, solemnly draws your attention to some pressing concerns staring the city in the face. These enjoin you to pause and think where the city is heading. ‘Clearing the Slums’ by Jeremy Seabrook, a journalist and campaigner based in London, fittingly highlights that the policy of the city authorities to create a "sunder Mumbai" by displacing people only shows how ignorant they are of economic and social pressures that lead to urbanisation. Another such stimulating piece of writing is on the 'encounter' cops of the Mumbai police who are taking on the underworld head on. They believe, by experience, that "the only good gangster is the dead gangster."

Expectedly, no anthology on Mumbai can be complete without touching the riots of 1993, when "the divided metropolis went to war with itself." Here you have Suketu Mehta, who grew up in Mumbai and lives in New York, recounting his visit to the slums ravaged by riots. An uncomfortably close shot of the macabre killings comes up as a Shiv sainik graphically describes a man on fire. He "gets up, falls, runs for his life, falls, gets up, runs. It is horror. Oil drips from his body, his eyes become huge`85."

Just when you are beginning to feel disillusioned and pessimistic about the city, slated to be the largest in the world in 2020, the anthology dwells on the hands that reach out from "the train to grab you on board`85.They do not know that the hand that is reaching for theirs belongs to a Hindu or Muslim or Christian or Brahmin`85.All they know is that you are trying to get to the city of gold, and that's enough. Come on board, they say. We'll adjust."

The word addiction surfaces again even as the voice of Adil Jussawalla, one of the illustrious contributors, reaches you. "Bombay, for me, is or has become a destination of the heart. I must stay here with my hurt."

The anthology with its assorted ingredients typifies Bombay and its bhel- at times sweet, at times tangy and caustic, but on the whole highly palatable.