NO style diva in India has made a more effective fashion statement in white as yesteryear actress Simi Garewal. Now a popular talk show hostess on television, she has come to embody sartorial elegance and dignity with a wardrobe that is apparently exclusively white.

For designers in the subcontinent, white signifies purity, romance, comfort, even subtle spirituality. So while the rest of the world might celebrate black, red or any other colour, in India white holds special significance. You don’t mess around with a person in white.

"White is always cool," says Kolkata designer Sabyasachi Mukherji, who has recently abandoned his trade mark riot of colours to a rather understated Kora collection. "Incidents like September 11 and the war in Iraq have driven me to a blank state of mind. In a world of tragedies, my collection celebrates life."

Kora is a Sanskrit word, meaning devoid of colour, or stripped down to the basics. For Mukherji, it is also an expression of protest against a "preponderance of kitsch and opulence" that has invaded the fashion world. For that matter, it runs counter to the bohemian look he had popularised with colourful elan two years ago.

So there are free-flowing cream and ecru gowns and long skirts with full-sleeved tops and stoles in light linen and silk to mark a classy fusion of western sophistication and ethnic femininity. "It is more like a personalised handmade look," the Kolkata kid points out.

Other designers may not be as avant garde, but the gradual shift towards wearable "colourless clothes" is evident from their latest designs. "Say a big no to colour," proclaims Rina Dhaka, who is planning her Summer-Spring 2004 collection in pristine white for Selfridges, Lord & Taylor and other western stores.

Her recommendation includes cotton trousers (ankle-length pants at night), short shirts and sleeveless tops, preferably in chiffons. "White gold and silver jewellery goes well with the Indian skin," she points out. "Crystal chains are also not a bad idea."

Likewise Rohit Bal, Raghavendra Rathore, Rana Gill, Anshu Arora and others are turning colourless, but with excessive detailing, shimmer and shine making up for the absence of embroidery and print. Many actually are relying heavily on Swarovsky, glass beads and even mirror work to compensate for the glitter.

As Rathore puts it: "No dark, garish colours or patterns and prints for me. Whites and creams are right and can be combined with bare minimum jewellery such as chunky silver metallic watches and 10 hair thin silver bangles or silver wires. For sheen and shimmer, try out a lovely pearl necklace or even seashells."

For men too, he is pitching for creams and whites for half-sleeve shirts with a European cut. "No ties and jackets," he insists. "These days you get a variety of natural fabrics like linen and some interesting cotton blends that are airy and keep you fresh."

Monisha Bajaj also opts for light and breezy fabrics like georgette and chiffon to enhance the "cool and relaxed look of whites" — particularly for skirts and short dresses. "Besides not getting crushed easily, they dry faster and are easier to maintain than regular cottons," she explains.

In keeping with the emphasis on whites, jewellery and accessories are being suitably coordinated. "You don’t want to wear too many beads or heavy gold with light chiffons," says Bajaj. "Light pearls are perfect. Don’t add too much. No fancy watches. Nice and strappy slippers go well with this look."

"Avoid the gaudy, bejewelled look," adds Vidya Tikari. "Play up on the tan, apply shimmering gold dust or gold power on the skin to spunk it up a bit. As for the hair, check out the bold, asymmetrical blunt cut, or the new edgy bob. The 60s’ look with the hair falling over the eye is in vogue!"

For those with long hair, Ambika Pillai suggests tying it up into a neat bun. "Twist the hair into a top knot and leave a few strands free," she advises. "Or else, use butterfly clips for a touch of shimmer and gloss, failing which, use simple clips with serrated edges to keep the hair in place."

Make-up takes the form of translucent powder, water-proof mascara, liner or kajal. A touch of lip gloss in paler shades like pearly pink, rust and pink mousse is recommended. Perfumes that leave a young, fresh, no-nonsense aroma go best with the white, understated look. (MF)