Collars come calling
Sheena Gilhotra

"LIPSTICK on the collar"! A fascinating opening line that has held the attention of generations since it was first aired. This song no doubt has lovely beats and has always had people coming out on the floor with romantic notions but there is another interesting aspect of the story: the ‘collar’, which is the heart of any garment. What to talk of its presence, it is even noticeable when it is absent, like in kurtas and waistcoats.

Whosoever invented the collar must get the credit for discovering the goldmine of fashion industry. No doubt the fabric, its cut and flow are important but it is the collar which lends personality to a garment.

How can anyone forget the typical bandgalla that is so intimately associated with India. The Chinese are also not far behind with their roundish bands made famous by the Mao.

Even a subtle variation in the collar would change the fashion line. The collar has both a decorative and a functional purpose. The opening offered by the collar to receive the necktie is a great backdrop to complete the picture of a well-dressed gentleman. You would have of course to be careful in its selection, depending on whether the tie knot is single or double. A double-knotted necktie would sit very well on a collar with wider opening. If however you prefer single knots (American style), you better go in for a buttoned-up collar with a narrow opening. The buttoned-up collar has also been associated with formal occasions. Then you have a range of tuxedo and bow-tie collars, the former for western-style weddings and the latter for official banquets. For Indian marriages, embroidery or crystal embellishments on sherwani collars look good. Or just go funky with the Elvis collars, a highlight of Rohit Bal’s collection at LIFW. Even if you don’t decorate them, they surely add to the dignity and enhance royal looks.

The casual styles have the advantage of being conservative yet comfortable and semi-formal. The plain open collar and convertible collar in shirts can be worn opened up for both men and women’s shirts. The beauty of it all is that the same type of collar can have variations by changing its pattern and shape.

The flat collar, as the name suggests, lies flat on the shoulder. It can be of as many shapes as you can think of; with rounded, straight or scalloped edges. Flat Peter Pan collar is one, which has rounded edges in both the front and the back, with an opening at the back. The frill, the sailor, the bow tie, the cape — all these collars look very cute in frocks and tops for kids. They impart the ‘fun’ element to kids’ wear with bright colours and embellishments like embroidery, bows, ribbons and laces.

A sheer black dress can be made to look more glamorous with the shimmer of a few Swarovskis on the collar. The turtleneck and rolled collars in sweaters pamper your neck in chilly winters and give a feeling of cosiness.

Unlike most collars which are stitched separately to the garment, the shawl collar is cut as part of it. It makes the gowns and dresses look dressier. This collar is also used for men’s formal jacket.

Wear them any way you like, open-chested or buttoned up. They are only likely to enhance the shape of the face, hairstyle and the remaining part of the garment. Never, however, catch anybody by their collar, otherwise you are in for a fight!