Sanganer hand block print, now a brand name the world over, is recognised internationally for its traditional style of printing done with natural dyes. The United Nations Industrial Development Organisation (UNIDO) in its report on the Jaipur hand block printed textile cluster, has mentioned, "Shades of black come out best after washing the cloth in the waters of Sanganer. Sanganer motifs are mostly floral based. Fine lines and intricate detailing are specialties of the Sanganeri style."

Hand block printing is a centuries' old tradition in India . Sanganeri printing reached great heights during the 16th and 17th century in all European countries and became one of the major exports of the East India Company. Almost 500 years' old, it can be rightly categorised as a 'Heritage Craft'.

The craft has traditionally been carried on by the Chhipas, an artisan community. Nobody has ever received formal training. They watch and learn as a matter of daily routine. The whole process, from printing to dyeing, is executed manually at home by family members.

In earlier times, the royal family of Jaipur was the chief patron of the craft. After Independence, the craft almost died till it was revived in the 70s owing to the patronage of prominent exponents like Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay, the person behind the cottage industry movement, Prabha Shah, Laila Tyabji, Pupul Jayakar and Faith and John Singh of Anokhi. Today, because of its limited output and intensive human input, it has become a rage in the West and among the elite. Going by official statistics, textile exports rest at over Rs 1000 crore from the state and almost Rs 400 crore is generated by way of readymades and furnishings made with block prints. "Although it's more expensive than screen prints, it enjoys a special clientele who swear by its quality and uniqueness," says Suresh Nair, GM of Soma, a well-known boutique in Jaipur.

Around 154 block print units functioning in Sanganer provide employment to around 3000 families. Further, about 18,000 to 20,000 are directly dependent for their livelihood on this craft. These units are, however, not ready to relocate to the new site, Chitroli village, some 42 km away, which the state government has earmarked for their relocation.

The block printers' main contention is that since the process requires limited water, space and power, pollution is within manageable limits. "Using Azo-free chemicals, natural and vegetable dyes, it's eco-friendly. Then why must we be penalised and asked to relocate due to the fault of over 300 screen printing units, which are the main pollutants in this region?" asks Brij Vallabh, joint secretary of Calico Printers Co-operative Society, which is spearheading the block printers' movement against the drive.

The average water consumption per unit is about 1000 litre. Almost 80 per cent of these units do not have in-house washing facilities and the washing process is all outsourced. The block printers unions say the problem of pollution, if at all, can be easily resolved by establishing Common Effluent Treatment Plants (CETPs) among four to five neighbouring units or by installing individual ETPs if the effluents are more in quantity. This move needs active support of the state government, "which is sadly lacking," say the printers.

They also point out that screen printers, catering to the mass market, use 20 times more water and hazardous chemicals. Screen printers from Gujarat invaded Sanganer 35 years ago. Since labour was cheap, they established big units, churning out 500-1000 metres of textile per day. "Since their turnover and profits are high, the screen printers can easily relocate to another place as they can bear the burden of pollution fee and relocation," says Vallabh. "The block printer's output is just 30-50 metres per day, and we make about Rs 1500-Rs 2500 per day. How can a micro unit like ours bear the additional burden of pollution fee, treatment and the cost of establishment at a new location? The additional burden will increase the cost of output, making this old well-established craft highly priced and non-competitive in today's cut-throat world," he adds.

Since whole families are involved in the craft, women stay at home, look after the kids and work at their own convenience in several auxiliary processes. "How will we be able to commute to Chitroli everyday?" asks Parvati, a woman worker.

Keeping in mind that this is the election year, Rajasthan's Industries Minister Chandra Bhan, however, assures that the state government does not want the relocation of these block printers as Sanganer has become a brand name the world over. "Since the four- member committee is looking into the matter, CETPs will be installed wherever the pollution is within manageable limits, and the units whose levels are high will be shifted to a place around Sanganer, which will be developed by RIICO, a state agency." Questioned about whether the area will be developed before the deadline, he says, "Any project takes time but the government will not allow the block printers to shift to Chitroli."

Over the years, Mysore silk, Darjeeling tea, Kolhapuri chappals or the Bikaneri bhujia have acquired a brand name associated with their respective areas. But Sanganeri block print still awaits patenting. When other countries are busy promoting their exclusive products to ensure growth and profitability, the Sanganeri print is on the verge of being obliterated. That is unless something is done urgently to preserve it. TWF