Stripes never lose their sheen
Sheena Gilhotra

THE interlacing of the warp and the weft (taana aur baana) gives the fabric its structure, while the intermingling of yarn colours gives it an artistic expression. A form of expression which distinguishes one design from the other. And each strand of coloured yarn finds its own place when being woven to give a fabric its form. The ongoing fashion trends dictate the designs of such woven art forms. Men’s fashion wear is taking a turn, depicting that today’s man is assertive yet agreeable. He wants to be a professional yet enjoys being at home. He wants to be practical yet follows his dreams. These shades of sensitivity are visible in the clothes he chooses to wear. The new colours and weaves are breaking the traditional code defining men’s wear.

The bands of ‘different widths and colours’ of warp threads woven with single-coloured weft threads or vice-versa, form a definite pattern — stripes. The stripes in men’s shirts are giving form to his exploration with the self. These stripes are ‘different’ in the true sense of the word, helping him broaden his horizon, his search for the new self. One will see them in various forms and shapes in the coming season.

Barcode stripes: Ever since zebras have had them, stripes have held fascination for designers. Barcode stripes are black and white lines in thick and thin combinations.

Bundles of stripes: They are multiple widths of colours closely placed one after the other.

Broad type: They comprise a few single broad strands.

Ombre stripes: Have a shaded look. Depict dark to light shading from one end to the other.

Non-repeating: The whole shirt shows just one repeat of a set of stripes.

Refined stripes: These are thin stripes, in light and neutral colours.

Multi-coloured stripes: They are a combination of different stripes in rich colours.

Graded as per size and colour: Here the width of stripes increases or decreases in a regular fashion.

Pyjama stripes: They are coloured stripes with wide white gaps.

Hairline stripes: Closely placed single strand lines, they give a very fine look.

Diagonal stripes (bias-cut): Of course, already ‘in’ since the last season, they are being marketed by all well-known shirt brands like Allen Solly, Indigo Nation and Wills Sport in refreshing colours. The bundle stripes are also becoming diagonal and multicoloured. The bias cut brings a stretch in the fabric, giving it a better fit.

Sheen stripes: The woven twill fabric (in white and colour) with its lustre gives the men’s wardrobe its requisite sophistication and formality. The shine comes from the polyester and polynosic fibres.

Pin stripes: Find their renewal in men’s business suits.

All the above stripes look unique in their original arrangement. These, however, look more attractive when found in different weaves other than the plain weave. Bright stripes in white background and twill/diagonal weave are really eye-catching — these are most prominently seen in the Zodiac shirt ads. The fancy weaves when combined with stripes add a new relief and texture and also helps soften the contrast of stripes on lighter backgrounds.

Even the style is getting influenced by the invasion of stripes`85you may have thinner stripes on the shirt bodice and thicker on the collar and pocket; the angle of diagonal lines on the bodice could be opposite to that on the collar. Even the inner side of collar could bring a new dimension. It could be plain or striped, opposite to that of the outside collar or shirt.

Sportswear too gets its share of stripes. The horizontal and angular stripes, in bright yellows and reds and cool blues and greens, with varied thickness in abstract placements add to the free look of T-shirts, casual shirts, tops and vests.

To get the best out of stripes, mix and match them and arrive at different permutations and combinations. They are everywhere in every wear. They can both contribute to making a suit appear formal and informal. The colourful and broader kinds speak of informal get-togethers, fun-filled holidays.

Large and bold stripes are suitable for tall and well-built men, whereas regular frames may have to restrict themselves to the slimmer and milder versions.

Courtesy: Textile View Magazine