SWAROVSKI`85 a rendezvous with sparkle, glitter and glamour. In 1895, Daniel Swarovski I built this company in the beautiful and inspiring countryside of Tyrolean village of Wattens in the Austrian Alps. The brilliance of Swarovski continues to mystify the world through a large range of its products. The pioneering technology has made it the unparalleled largest manufacturer of crystal. The finest full-cut man-made crystal has intrigued millions with a fascinating variety of of cuts and colours. Earlier synonymous with exclusive home accessories and interior design, jewellery in stones and pearls and chandeliers, Swarovski crystal has now become a household name through the textile components. These find themselves in sparkling combinations — spreading out the shimmer in varied apparels and fabrics`85 in the very traditional handwoven sarees or used with aari work, chikankari and block printing in westerns and indo-westerns, or used to lend a glitter to shoes and bags. In spite of this extensive usage, Swarovski still hasn’t reached its saturation point in the Indian fashion industry, unlike the common belief. The versatility of the product has still not been seen in the market.

Colour and cuts

The crystals we usually see are hot fix stones with flat backs. These have a dull green layer of gum underneath which melts on application of heat and forms thermal bonding with the fabric ‘mesh’. The 12-faceted (facets refer to the cuts) coloured crystals are as amazing as real gemstones, like emerald, erinite, olivine and peridot in greens; jonquil and citrine in yellows; aquamarine, light sapphire, sapphire, cobalt and capri in blues; and rose, light rose, fuschia, peach in pinks. An interesting variety is crystal AB that offers a galaxy of colours — aureole borealis (AB). The fire in fire opal, vigour in volcano and serenity in white opal is overwhelming. The contrast as well as gradation in size and colour of crystals is used to develop motifs. Traditional Indian motifs, florals, flowing creepers, geometrics and abstracts can bring inspiration for designs using crystals. Design elements of flow, balance and symmetry are all kept in mind for the strategic placement of crystals to form a motif. Every season, the company launches new products and theme-based concepts. Recently, it came out with a crystal, completely transparent with clear glue base, which. looks like dew drops on the fabric. Black crystal varieties like cosmojet, hematite and jet nut when applied on to black fabric base gives a new sheen without becoming too loud or jarring.

Crystals are available as loose stones or transfers. State-of-the-art robotic machines are used to apply loose crystals one by one on to the fabric. The nozzle, adjusted according to diameter of the crystal, automatically picks it up and places it on the requisite point on the fabric. By applying heat from the underside, the crystal sticks on to the fabric permanently. The temperature has to be regulated so that the glue does not spread out of the diameter of the crystal and also does not spoil delicate fabrics such as silks, chiffons and georgettes.

Transfers are ready to use developed design-repeats secured in a transfer paper (it has a layer of gum which keeps the crystals in place).

Transfers are made manually by placing crystals individually with the help of tweezers. High-tech machines with the help of computer software can automatically make a transfer. Very precise and emotive portraits in crystals can be made using such high technology.

After planning the layout of an overall pattern, transfers are placed on to the apparel and then heat is applied. The heat is either applied manually with irons or mechanically with hot-press beds.

The traditional embroidery techniques can be artistically gelled with crystals. Combining dabka or zardosi work with crystals, offers you the opulence of kundan jewellery. The intricate designs on sleeve hems and necklines can easily replace jewellery. The colourful bandhanis and shiboris of Jaipur with crystals and gota-patti work look very vibrant. The multi-coloured lehriya and tie-and-dye chiffon sarees can be embellished with nine-metre Arabic or creeper-based border designs. Appliqu`E9 with crystal spray, khadi printing with crystals, accessories like lamp shades, wedding cards, sheer curtains, watches, eye-wear with crystals on them`85the options are endless.

Besides having crystal components on fabrics, a variety of other Swarovski products are equally if not more fascinating and beautiful. A metal piece in the shape of a star, square, rectangle or as an ‘S’ in polished matt-finish in combination with crystals looks very modern.

The 16-faceted crystal called creation has more shine`85the eye-shapes, droplets, triangles and rectangles give a new dimension to the design. These look scintillating in spread -out patterns in sarees, or on one of the sleeves or below one of the shoulders or in a series of small motifs on the placket.

The pearl components — frosted white, nacre and cream rose — look pure and pristine. The pearls combined with intricate ‘diamond’ transfers on white satins, nets, crochets, lingerie lend a feminine touch to the outfit. The transparent crystal beads form lovely tassels for shawls, stoles and evening gowns.

The transcolours are paper-thin components circular in shape and arranged in a regular or alternate manner. These come in ready to use rolls of sheets of transfer paper. These can be applied on to yards of fabric. After application, these become ‘like fabric’, which can be made into any kind of garment. The transparent transcolours look gorgeous on sheer fabrics like nets and organzas.

Rhinestone bandings—stones in band form — crystal mesh, cup chains and net bandings are all ready to use products which can be placed on hemlines, necklines and straps.

Ringed roses are crystals with metallic rings and are hot fixed like other crystals. An abstract spray of ringed roses, which is dense in the middle and sparse on the sides, can form a beautiful galaxy on a black stole.

Sew-ons, buttons, crystal zippers, lingerie fasteners, crystal eyes`85.the list can go on and on.Last but not the least, the crystal tattoos. The closest you could get to Swarovski!

As Swarovski itself puts it, " Three reasons to have Swarovski in your life`85 dress yourself up. Dress up your home. Dress up your life." Images: Swarovski publications

(The writer is a textile design consultant and stylist)