AFTER a particularly colourful winter, India’s fashion pundits are raising some unusual questions: Will the deconstructed bohemian look rule the ramps from now on? Have Indian designers discovered a competitive edge to stand out in the international marketplace? What typifies Indian fashion?

At the root of these questions is the fact that black is no longer considered beautiful by the Indian fashion fraternity. The colour that fused designer creativity worldwide for ages has suddenly made way for brights in the subcontinent. And no colour has replaced it as effectively and so decisively as red.

Among other colours that are making appearances are burgundy, china blue and chocolate brown. "But red is the biggest story in fashion today," says Kiran Uttam Ghosh, who has just come out with blood red georgette sarees, khadi kurtas and drapes out of red pleated fabrics.

"There is a sultriness and oomph that only red can project, whereas with black it’s more like the ‘been there, done that’ kind of feeling. I don’t think women today like that. They are keen on experimentation and are trying all options to look good, feel good."

"Too much has been done with black and it is boring to keep reinventing it year after year," explains Sabyasachi Mukherjee, the newest designer to be making waves. "In contrast, red is a solid colour and has so many different tonalities to compliment the basic Indian complexion."

Priyadarshini Rao is another designer anxious to replace the "drudgery of black with the youthfulness of red". But for her, the switch is more of a response to the desultory state of the economy worldwide with red being interpreted as the colour that symbolises hope and rejuvenation.

"Red is very big this year," she maintains. "In a way it helps to rejuvenate the sagging spirit of the market as well as make a strong style statement. It has a bohemian feel to it and sets the spirit free. Accessories in reds such as bags, belts and shoes are equally hot and help in complementing an ensemble."

As one who is against using single colours for her outfits, Rao combines three or four different shades of red to create a certain "gypsy feel". This is precisely what Mukherjee had done at the last LIFW (Lakme India Fashion Week) in Delhi, which marked his big splash in the fashion firmament.

For such designers, the choice of a shade of red speaks volumes about the kind of person the wearer is. Explains Mukherjee: "Earthy red spells classy elegance, whereas a brighter tone imparts an element of mischief. Dark red has a slimming effect. Postbox red suggest a romantic disposition... and so on."

"Red is the colour traditionally associated with romance," agrees Sudeshna Gill, who takes pride in her latest range of layered red chiffon skirts teamed with red woollen pashmina shawls and red bandhgalas with churidaars as part of her winter collection.

"The colour can be worked upon in various ways to convey a range of emotions," she points out. "So you have the red chiffon saree, which makes a woman look desirable and sensuous. A bright red jacket can make her appear glamorous and elegant and red boots are a fashion accessory every woman must have in her wardrobe. The adventure of wearing red can be raised to unimaginable heights."

Red is also an auspicious colour for Indians. "It has been the mainstay of our bridal ensembles since time immemorial," says Kavitha Bharatia, who recently sold a deep red trousseau by Goan designer Wendell Rodricks minutes after it was put up at her store.

"At Oogan they are the hottest selling items as new brides want to capture the vibrancy red imparts on their special day," she informs. "I have created red sarees, lehngas and short kurtas in different textiles and embellished them with resham, zardozi, zari and bead work. They are all doing very well."

However, doubts are being raised in some quarters on whether wearing red is a passing fad or if it has come to stay. While designers like Ravi Bajaj and Rina Dhaka argue that "black is irreplaceable as it is a generic colour", there are others like Bharatia and Mukherjee who insist that "red would extend to pink and strawberry" by the summer of 2003.

Ghosh sums it up aptly when she says that black has its own space, but the resurrection of red cannot be overlooked. "Red is a fashion staple that has never gone out of vogue," she explains. But somehow, our Indian sensibility did not make the acceptance of this colour as easy as it is today." (MF)