FROM the chunky pullovers of the eighties to the hug-me-tight knitwear of the nineties, winter fashion has come full circle in India. Bold hand-knit sweaters, crochet-patchwork shawls and ultra-long striped scarves have brought the winter wardrobe of yesteryear back to the forefront.

But that is only part of the woolly story. The other part is the celebration of black in the woven segment. Lightweight blazers, jackets, coats and trousers in grades of black and varying textures present a picture in contrast to the shag effect of a hefty carpet or rug that knits project.

The resultant effect is a judicious combination of colour and dark tones, much like what Europe had witnessed at the turn-of-the-millennium festivities two years ago. Black is not only flattering to the Indian complexion, but also goes well with any mix-’n’-match possibility.

"There is something really masculine about a big hand-knit sweater that looks as though it has been knitted by your grandmother," says designer Nikita Oberoi, whose own wardrobe ranges between the lightweight urban Indian sweaters and the big knits worn outside as a coverall to replace a coat or jacket.

Her designs, she says , are largely inspired by the hand-knit sweaters of the Woodstock era, which were regarded as "a uniform of alternative style". Yet another abiding childhood image, she points out, was the long scarf Ali McGraw wore in Love Story.

But then, while Oberoi is intent upon capturing the romantic spirit in woolens, most other designers are moving with the tide sweeping the West. Here, the strongest inspiration is the image of Harry Potter in his school uniform and its many variations.

On the colour front, it is the "timeless appeal" of black that continues to captivate Indians, even as designers like Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, Anu Gupta and Darshan Kinariwala are offering alternatives. While Abu-Sandeep are experimenting with pastels and earth colours, Anu works on lemon yellow, mauve and various tints of blue.

Likewise, Darshan is venturing into brighter shades of lime, henna, burgundy, sand, flesh and mauka browns in relatively heavier fabrics. "People are fed up of the same old shades of grey, dark blue and black every winter," she reasons.

"The colours I have chosen are not only off-beat, but pleasing to the eye as well. They are specially dyed for the season in fabrics that go well with Indian climatic conditions. I have used black and beige also, but very sparingly."

Too much black can also cause gloom. As Namrata Barua, a leading Bombay-based model points out: "Black is not an Indian colour. Red is. With embroidery, black can become too formidable. You need to be really bold and adventurous to carry such clothing."

Another model, Sushma Reddy has a different take, though. She recommends a stylish pair of sleek black pants with a colourful embroidered or sequined top to catch the spirit of the season, and adds: "Black with some cool mirror-work and embroidery looks very classy during winter."

Eventually, it is the combination of one or more colours with black that finds the most enthusiastic response. For men, this invariably translates to a pair of dark trousers with a contrasting pullover, jacket or full-buttoned shirt — depending upon the occasion.

For women though, the options could vary between black A-line skirts, salwars and stretch pants with colour-blocked tops, kameezes with floral print and elaborately embroidered jackets. Long strappy dresses in solid blue jersey are also popular in Mumbai winters.

Women are also combining black trousers with simple, sleek, earth-coloured blouses and a matching carry-along. Wraparounds like shawls and stoles have not caught on this winter, though colourful caps and mufflers are making occasional appearances.

Ultimately, the hottest number this season is the gilet or vest — a long sleeveless jacket, reminiscent of a medieval jerkin. Combining cosiness with comfort, it has come to replace the tiny, fine-knit sweaters that cling to the body and bare the navel.

"Indians are not very imaginative at designs in woolens," says Sushma. "This is primarily because the winter chill escapes the best part of the country. It is only in the northern parts that we can see some interesting pullover styles, but most others are poor imitations of overseas labels."

— MF