A fallen yet formidable architectural marvel
Ramesh K. Dhiman

HIMACHAL PRADESH, besides being a Mecca for tourists, is a treasure-trove of magnificent monuments and ancient temples.

Like many other places of historical interest dotting the breathtaking Kangra valley, the imposing fort of Nagarkot, also known as Bhimkot (now Kangra), deserves a special mention. A mute witness to the chequered history of this hilly region, the fort has many a time been a victim of unsatiable human greed and natural calamities.

Precariously perched on a hilltop at 2494 feet, this impregnable architectural marvel commands a captivating view: against the backdrop of the snowy Dhauladhar summits, the sprawling Kangra valley unfolds an aura of spectacular sights and scenes.

A popular legend has it that the fort is erected over the ear of a demon, called Jalandhara, who was killed by Lord Shiva and was buried under a mountain here. Thus it was named ‘Kang-garh’ which later came to be known as Kangra. Another legend has it that it was built by King Susarma Chand, one of the erstwhile rulers of this old hill state, who is believed to have supported the Kaurvas in the battle of Mahabharata.

The fort, which is somewhat like a typical medieval European castle, has been subjected to mass-scale plundering by Muslim, Afghan and other marauders. Mahmud Ghaznavi invaded Kangra in 1009, driven by an unsatiable desire to conquer Kangra, capture the fort and loot its riches. History corroborates that the king had returned home with a huge booty which comprised diamonds, gold, silver and other valuables that he had plundered from the fort and the Kangra temple. It is said that the caravan of camels ferrying loads of wealth was nearly a mile long. This attack was followed by that of Mohammad Tughlaq who stormed Kangra and seized the fort in 1337 from the then king, Prithi Chander. Later, Purab Chander, who succeeded him, recaptured the fort. Then Raja Roop Chand led a relentless military expedition into the plains of Punjab which had its impact right up to the frontiers of Delhi. This infuriated Feroz Shah Tughlaq, the then Sultan of Delhi, who mounted an attack on Kangra in 1366 with a view to stem the burgeoning power of the raja. Roop Chand was defeated in a grim battle. On his passing away, his son, Singara Chand, came to the throne. Timur invaded Kangra during his rule.

A couple of years after Timur’s invasion (in 1405), Raja Hari Chand took over the reigns of the Kangra empire. Once on a routine hunting trip, the king lost his way in the woods. As it was dark, he fell into a dry well. Presuming that the king might have either been killed by a wild animal or taken prisoner, his younger sibling Karam Chand was made the king. Raja Hari Chand, who was saved by some passersby, returned to the kingdom after 22 days. On discovering that his younger brother had been made the next king, he founded a new principality called Guler — the cradle of the famous Guler Kalam (Kangra Kalam) — with its capital at Haripur.

Emboldened by the dastardly acts of earlier marauders, it was now the turn of Afghan ruler Sher Shah Suri, who conquered Kangra in 1540 by defeating Humayun. With Akbar ascending the throne, the Muslim empire saw the dawn of a new era. Akbar worked out a strategy to keep all hill chieftains under his rule. He sent his Finance Minister Todar Mal to annex those hill territories which he had identified as most vulnerable.

Jahangir too, after being enthroned the king, was seized with the desire to conquer Kangra and capture the fort, about which it was believed: "He who held the fort, ruled all the hill states". In 1615, he sent a strong contingent of troops under the command of Sheikh Farid Murtaza Khan and Raja Suraj Mal of Nurpur, his trusted confidant. But the troops returned without success. Unfazed, the king sent another contingent in 1620 under the command of Sunder Dass. This time the troops succeeded in capturing the fort after facing a stiff resistance. The ambitious Muslim invader also annexed the other hill states to his empire and garrisoned his troops in the fort to keep a watchful eye on the hill rulers. During the rule of King Hamir Chand, who ruled Kangra for 47 years, a major chunk of the hill territories was under the suzerainty of the Mughals. His son, Raja Ghamand Chand, who succeeded him, led a relentless battle against them and captured almost all Muslim-occupied territories, except the fort. It remained under their control for 40 years. Having failed to regain the control of the fort, he raised a parallel fort at Sujanpur Tira on the shores of the Beas. The king passed away in 1774. His son, Tegh Chand, who succeeded him, also died a year later.

The Kangra empire then saw the emergence of Raja Sansar Chand II, who came to the throne at the age of 10. On assuming charge of the vast Kangra empire, Sansar Chand’s top agenda was to recapture the fort. He succeeded in accomplishing the mission in 1781 with the active help of his trusted ally, Sardar Jai Singh of Kanhaya. But, he was compelled to surrender it to the Sikhs in 1809. It remained under their control till 1846. However, Raja Sansar Chand wanted the restoration of the fort, no matter at what price. Having failed to realise his cherished dream militarily, he surrendered some of the territories he had captured from the Sikhs and regained control of the fort. However, the hill rulers who were not supportive of his growing power, attacked him to avenge their bruised egos. In 1806, the Gurkhas, under the command of Amar Singh Thapa, defeated Sansar Chand. He had to seek asylum in the fort, from where he finally fled to Sujanpur Tira.

The historic Kangra Fort, a witness to many an upheaval, fell to the devastating earthquake that rocked the entire Kangra valley in 1905. The quake left a trail of devastation as a number of religious and historical structures, housed in the fort, were reduced to rubble.

The fort, a winsome blend of the medieval and ancient genre of fort architecture, covers a fairly large area and is guarded by high ramparts and a huge wall. Its gates have been named after its conquerors who captured it from time to time. The entrance gate is known as Ranjit Singh Gate, which leads to Jahangiri Darwaza. Then there are the Ahini and Amiri Darwazas, both dedicated to Nawab Ali Khan, the last Muslim Governor of Kangra. The other two gates — Andheri and Darshani Darwazas — had suffered extensive damage in the earthquake. At a close distance are the shrines of Luxminarayan, Ma Sheetla and Ambika. A flight of stairs further leads to the imposing Sheesh Mahal, now in ruins. To the south-west is the polygonal watch-tower, which offers a kaleidoscopic view of the panoramic Kangra valley. While treading on the scattered ruins of this fallen edifice frozen in time, one can hear the haunting echoes of its past. Though in ruins, this fallen architectural marvel and its rugged grandeur has much to offer to art lovers. It is hoped that the Archaeological Survey of India will take steps to preserve the remains of this rare fort.