IT’S that time of the year when life is full of celebrations and ceremonies. Weddings are being held everywhere. And designers like Deepal Mehta, who normally go in for neutrals and muted tones, have now chosen to celebrate with bright oranges, reds and maroons.

Clearly colour is in. Gold embroidery and embellishments have become the focus of bridal wear, while cuts and drapes are kept basic. Also, done-to-death floral motifs are on the way out. Instead, fabrics and embroideries are being specially treated to create an antique look.

Even tie-and-dye prints have come up in a big way. In unusual combinations of purple and red, green and rust or maroon and blue, the colours serve as the base for some enchanting beadwork amidst glittering crystals on rich silks and georgettes.

Some designers like Anjana Bhargav are resurrecting ancient patterns and tribal crafts, whereas Deepika Gehani, who is known for her formals, semi-formals and bridals, prides herself on her use of chikankari, kundan, mirror work, zardosi and sequin sprays.

But the one making the biggest splash this wedding season is Sabyasachi Mukherjee who won the British Council Award at the last Miss India show in Delhi. He cuts up old brocade sarees, over-dyes and embroiders them and then creates ‘art-deco clothes’ that are simple, subtle and elegant.

Another important fashion development is the inspiration provided by Neeta Lulla’s creations for the movie Devdas. Drawn from the heirlooms of royal families in Kolkata, the brocade sarees, puff-sleeved blouses and peeping frilled petticoats have changed the way brides deck up for the big day.

In all this, silhouettes are strictly feminine with soft diaphanous fabrics like crepes, georgettes and silks constituting the bulk of bridal outfits. An exception would probably be Kiran Uttam Ghosh who continues to explore structured silhouettes like the sherwani for women.

Adding drama is Krishna Mehta’s pret lines premiered at the recent Femina Bridal Show. Ornate Lehngas have been enhanced with crystals. Even her designs for men are bright and colourful.

Equally dazzling are Tarun Tahiliani’s bridal designs in net, lace and brocade with zardosi embroidery. Meant mainly for celebrities and the glamour brigade (going by costs), the exclusively bridal ghagra-cholis and sarees are styled according to the bride’s height, figure, skin tone as well as the jewellery she’d wear.

But then, there are certain colours like antique gold on beige, rust and ivory which suit all Indian skin tones and are, therefore, much in demand. Moreover, these colours match well with favourites in embellishments — zardosi, crystals and sequins.

Very often, two odhnis in contrasting colours are created for lehnga-cholis. The lighter one, draped around the head, is usually in purple, wine or chutney green, whereas the heavier one for the shoulders is in red or maroon with gold trimmings.

The lehnga is either in the traditional umbrella shape or else, slim and trim depending upon the bride’s figure. The choli or the blouse is either long or short with a jacket on it. The colour scheme and embroidery is coordinated with that of the odhni or dupatta.

Among wedding sarees, the most popular are the Paithani, Aashavali and Patolas. Traditional Banarasis and Kanjeevarams, somehow seem to have fallen from favour this season. Designers like Naina Javeri, Bela Sanghvi and Shaina N.C. are even offering one-of-a-kind sarees as bridal wear.

Rina Shah and designers specialising in bridal accessories are offering custom-made shoes and bags to match garments. Likewise, jewellery designers like Poonam Soni are offering exclusive bridal bracelets, neckpieces, earrings and anklets suited for the occasion.

Then there are designers like Arjun Khanna, Vijay Arora and Shobha Somani who coordinate the bridal trousseau with what the groom wears. Basically, there are three options available here — sherwani, jodhpuri suit and bundi or bundgala with kurta and churidars. All of them go well with shawls.

Very often, a sleeveless long knee-length jacket is added to the sherwani. The colours can range from beige and ivory to rust, grey, maroon and black. Churidars are favoured, but at times trousers or Aligarh pants are also opted for. The clothes of the groom must complement those of the bride, if only for the photos and videos! MF