The bohemian look, normally associated with ghagra-choli, has been replaced by a suave, understated elegance that is more westernised than Indian, says Saloni Kaul, while maintaining that traditional accessories like dupattas, odhnis, shawls and stoles are fast losing their relevance.

THE popularity of ghagra-cholis during Dasehra can be closely linked to the importance young people attach to the Navaratri dances these days. Not only do these costumes facilitate the movement of limbs during the night-long dandiya sessions, they also lend colour to the occasion.

The ghagra-choli also meets the aspirations of a young, liberated and fun-loving generation, anxious to move on with the times and yet not lose hold on its roots. Any other form of festive attire cannot match the sensuous appeal of the ghagra.

Clearly, these factors have influenced some of the most innovative ghagra-choli designs that have hit the stores this time around. The psychedelic interplay of colours, sequins and mirror-work are complemented with bold cuts, subtle embroidery and a fine use of zari and zardosi in all creations.

Above all, designers are seeking to make a subtle Indo-western fusion statement, which renders the ghagra-choli a non-fussy, easy-to-wear outfit celebrating romance. The traditional drawstring skirts are available in shades of yellow, red and bluish grey with dashes of gold embroidery. Brocade silk has replaced cotton, while the waists are fitted with yokes to create a sexy A-line look.

The choli (or blouse), which goes with the ghagra, is usually in two shades of contrasting colours (for added drama) and is heavily sequined. Options range from the sleeveless and three-quarter sleeved to deep V-necks and collared varieties.

Significantly, the backless cholis, with or without strings, are no longer seen. Back knots are rare, though back buttons or clasps make an occasional appearance. By and large, women are going in for fitted blouses, which can be slipped on like knitted tops!

On a more formal note, the French-net ghagra with splashes of gold is causing ripples in the fashion circuit. With overlapping panels that cause a natural slit, the skirt takes on the look of a pallazo, but on a grander scale.

Complementing this is the choli with an asymmetric neck and off-shoulder cut sleeves in golden lace. The ensemble, said to be inspired by a Noel Silas creation two years ago, has become one of the most-talked-about silhouettes for the way it blends basic design elements of the East and the West.

Silas had, in fact, designed another hot number — an ornate silk skirt with interwoven floral patterns in yellow, green and pink. It was an entirely Indian concept, heightened by an asymmetric hemline (for a multi-layered effect) that caught on instantly.

The choli here is boat-necked, much like those worn by the nomadic tribal women of Gujarat and Rajasthan. But instead of patchwork embroidery and mirrors, the embellishments on the piece were in tiny glass pipes and sequins.

The effect turned out to be very ethnic, but not as ostentatious as the French-net ghagra-choli. The latter holds a far more romantic appeal with twenty-somethings, especially for the Navaratri celebrations. At the same time, it is versatile enough to be mixed ’n’ matched with different tops and dupattas.

White lace also makes an appearance this year as designer Poonam Mehra comes up with a delicate outfit with dull gold zardozi work on ghagra. The choli comes in crushed paper silk with intricate self-coloured glass pipes and sequins. The designer offers additional options with embroidered waistcoats or jackets with mirror-work in contrasting shades and long dupattas with tassels.

The same cut and finish is available in chamois satin, and the ghagra is embellished with self-coloured sequins outlined in gold zari work. Some designers have gone a step further while creating a petal effect by stitching together large patches of the same fabric to the skirt.

In all this, traditional accessories like dupattas, odhnis, shawls and stoles are fast losing their relevance. The bohemian look, normally associated with ghagra-choli, has been replaced by a suave, understated elegance that is more westernised than Indian.

Similarly, the huge white banjara bangles, oxidised metal earrings, nose-studs, silver anklets and the large multi-coloured beaded necklaces which show up during Navaratri festivities are no more in fashion. Slender gold chains and rings are more in keeping with the mood of the season. (MF)