All leading designers have captured the spirit of the season with a range of what street fashion could be at its imaginative best — knee-length and ankle-length skirts, cargo pants, singlets and drawstring trousers. In what could be a revival of the flower power of the sixties, they are also creating pretty, icy pink Barbie doll ensembles that are minimalist, clean, sexy and yet not over the top, says Saloni Kaul.

ONE of the highlights of the Lakme India Fashion Show last month was the unusual emphasis on fun wear. Whether it was Sabyasachi Mucherji’s much talked-about bohemian chic, Malini Ramani’s animal prints, the frilly and layered designs of Raghavendra Rathore or Rohit Bal’s leather outfits, the accent was clearly on youth and romance.

The days of clean, simple lines are obviously gone — as also the studied, ornate look of ceremonial wear. Greys and blacks have made way for a riot of colours and prints with soft pastels, ecru, reds, yellows, oranges, celestial blues, off-whites and pristine white dominating.

And then, it’s not just colours that are making a celebration of fun times. It is also the silhouette — sharp cuts but with softer shapes in crepe, georgette and stretch fabric, embellished with a dash of shimmer. Alternatively, it is folk chic all the way.

All leading designers have been capturing the spirit of the season with a sporty range of what street fashion could be at its imaginative best — knee-length and ankle-length skirts, cargo pants, singlets and drawstring trousers. In what could be a revival of the flower power of the sixties, they are also creating pretty, icy pink Barbie doll ensembles that are minimalist, clean, sexy and yet, not over the top.

Swarovski crystals and silver embroidery uphold the high notes of romance, so far as embellishments go. Some designers are repeating last year’s black and white calf-length dresses in an eclectic mix of colours and shapes and for that stamp of individuality, they are recommending stylish sun-glasses and scarves. Many are even suggesting matching footwear, bags, belts and head gear for that extra zing!

Designer Sunita Kohli carries the feel-good sentiment in her latest collection, ‘La Femme’, which has a lot of cute, seamless tops and side-pleated dresses, both with and without sleeves.

To coordinate with the tops, Kohli has both fitted trousers and capri pants. Skirts make an appearance, but with structured jackets. She has loose, flowing, drawstring trousers (somewhat like harem pants) as well to complete the look.

The neckline plays an important part here with detailed pleating and a Wallace collar, which can be turned into a shawl collar. Ice mint and blushing pink mingle with lime green and soft beige in light fabrics ranging from butter crepe to shimmering silk.

Another upcoming designer, intent upon making a romantic statement, is Rehana Dhupia. She is coming up with singlets in colours like pista, mist and lemon in velvet and lycra which can be teamed with wrap-around sarong skirts of the same fabric. Knee-length silk shirts also feature prominently in her collection. These are in biscuit, beige and sky-blue and can be teamed with either salwars or loose trousers.

Yet another designer in the same league is Rohan Parmar. His styles are for the young and petite as well as the old and mature woman ("nobody in between") with lots of separates in shades of ivory. He mixes fabrics like linen and silk with a jamewar weave and cotton to create a gypsy, tribal look out of capri pants with 34" to 35" tunics, skirts with slits and ankle-length trousers. These are teamed with short cap sleeved shirts (or even sleeveless) and patchwork stoles as accessories.

As for ethnic wear, sarees make an appearance, but crinkled, in shades of dusty pink and pale green. Blouses are in sheer, pleated fabrics with prominent detailing in buttons, fringes and tiny, blanket stitches. There are also attempts to combine elements from sarees, salwar-kameezes and ghagra-cholis to create newer interpretations in fusion wear. Most of these are in linen and synthetic blends, matched with scarves or stoles in shades like smoked grey.

For teeny-boppers, there is a variety of short tops with detailing like pin tucks and sheer tunics that can be worn with pleated camisoles. As usual, these are teamed with trousers and long scarves. In all this, what matters ultimately is the feel — fabrics like soft twills, piques, cotton lycra, cotton viscose and poly viscose which can set the mood and in effect, create a lasting fun-filled fashion experience.

(MF)