NO fashion accessory has acquired the kind of cult status as the bangle. Sanctified by religion, culture and tradition, it has charmed its way into women’s arms and is, today, regarded as the most stylish expression of elegance and good taste.

Whether they are in glass, gold, bone or wood, bangles indeed have a lot to say about the person you are. You can get them in colours to match your choli, salwar-kameez or saree. Or else, you can go for a mismatch, just as Madonna and the Spice Girls do...and still look hep.

"The trend among the young and arty in cities is towards silver, worked with semi-precious stones such as rock crystal and amethyst," opines Rohini Khosla, whose collection of branded bracelets and bangles is the latest rage. "This is because such jewellery is not considered an investment and, yet, is exclusive."

While most designers are making copies of Victorian designs from European catalogues, Khosla takes pride in combining "tradition with modernity" to suit her clientele’s taste. For example, she has a collection of chunky cuff bracelets embellished with ceramic Indian goddesses to mark her signature style.

Another jewellery designer, Asha Modi, has been experimenting with gold in different colours (pink, dark brown and grey) for her bangles. "Most of my bangles are fitted with clasps or springs so that they open according to the size of the wrist," she informs. "At times, I give the bracelets a soldered chain look, keeping in mind the kind of outfit the client will be wearing".

The soldering on bangles of metal is another focus area for designers. Since you cannot have one size that fits all, the tendency in the branded jewellery market is to produce bangles as clasps or with clips. But there are also jewellers who offer bangles and bracelets with virtually non-existent soldering.

"In traditional 22-carat jewellery, the soldering reduces the bangle’s life", explains Chand Mehra, who has been able to do away with the soldered joints for his gold bangles and bracelets. "Soldering also reduces the purity of the final product."

Style-wise, designers recommend thin and delicate numbers for young women who choose to wear a lot of pastels and peaches. For older women, bangles set with marquee (rice-shaped), baguette (long rectangle-shaped) or round stones are more appropriate.

"But then, the traditional designs will never go out of fashion," Priya Patil, a style consultant points out. "Not only is vintage jewellery much in demand, a revival of sorts is being witnessed for bangles in material such as glass, coral, lac, conch shell, wood and bone. And they look quite pretty these days!"

Next to glass (which is both inexpensive and available in myriad colours), the typical red Bengali paula is also popular. Worn by married women, this is actually a coral bangle. Considered auspicious, it is worn in combination with a white sankha, crafted out of conch shell.

Young women have dispensed with the sankha and are now sporting the bright red paulas with western outfits. Designer versions are also appearing to keep up with the trend — the most popular being the gold mesh or lace work around the coral body. Cheaper plastic varieties are also in demand.

Tribal lac bangles from Bihar and Rajasthan are also popular. Usually encrusted with glass or semi-precious stones, these can be conveniently accessorised with casual wear of any colour and cut. On festive occasions, lac bangles are really hot.

"But it isn’t just the material that can make the difference," says Patil. "Bangles have acquired their own uniqueness, because of their sizes and shapes. In fact, such is the variety available that men are increasingly taking to bracelets and bangles."

The most common is the cuff bracelet, usually of copper or silver, which can be clasped together. For a more macho look, there are copper bazubands (arm bands) that were once worn by the royalty. Designed beautifully in kundan with fine enamel plating on the inside, this arm ornament is right for those given to displaying their biceps.

Cartier has now come up with a European version of the bazuband, with Greek motifs! MF