Saturday, July 6, 2002 |
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IN India, the concept of comfort clothing is yet to be associated with what you wear in the privacy of your bedroom, or at best, while on a holiday. Here, it has something to do with being neither too formal, nor too casual — a dress that could spell understated elegance and casual chic. Teenagers have learnt to identify this look as ‘cool’ or ‘basic’. There’s no room for anything as fussy as an ornate salwar-kameez or an elaborately embroidered ghagra-choli in comfort wear. Rather, shorts and wraparounds make a better bet this summer. Printed skirts are just as hot, especially in light cottons. The distinctive feature about such clothing is that it dispenses with the traditional waistband. Drawstrings and elastic are staging a comeback. Also, the length of skirts and wraparounds could range from thigh-high down to the knee, calf or ankle level. Leading designers are working around this basic theme with variations in colour and fabric textures. The colours of the season (particularly for bootleg and flat trousers) range from sky and aqua to maize and mint and turmeric and chilli red. Many are coming out with
elaborate fusion lines consisting of uniquely styled kurtas
with asymmetrical cuts coupled with loosely structured pants and
flowing dupattas in a variety of woven cotton voiles, silk,
even jamevars and linen. |
Then there are designers who speak of the ‘fun look’ that comes with a judicious mix‘n’match of styles, colours, fabric and prints. For example, cargo pants with multiple pockets (in light and dark shades) are being paired with tiny crochet tops and colourful scarves for added effect. Seema Rastogi feels that white lycra pedal pushers with baby blue saddle stitch can be a hot fashion item, especially among Mumbai’s party animals. The pedal pushers may be complemented by spaghetti strap tops in white lycra with discreet blue checks. Also in are minis, but in prints and pastels. They look best in lycra for those who are long-limbed and have a good body to match. The most popular numbers this season are the pink, blue and beige printed shift minis for cocktail evenings. Apart from these, there are stylish hipsters (without those constricting waistbands). Beige, white, black and ash are colours that go well with strappy lavender tops. Stripes in black or brown, against a white background are equally sought after by the tall, lissome sorts. In menswear, summer favourites include single-breasted jackets and surf shorts (which are longish, but worn around the hips). Fabric-wise, linen is clearly a favourite, but synthetic weaves like polyester are also pretty popular. Some designers are recommending a straight and streamlined silhouette for men with shirts having wide necks. Half-collars opening into a deep cut are hot favourites with the campus crowd. Men are also sporting sleeveless blouses and singlets for a unisex look. As for trousers, the considered view among designers is that anything below the knee and short of the ankle does not suit the Indian physique. Ideally, trousers should be knee-length or ankle-length. For variety, designers like Azeem Khan are offering a range of sunflower yellow, chutney green, mint blue and earth tones in georgettes, satin and lace. The designer is known for silhouettes that are elongated, but not necessarily flowing. So in his version of comfort clothing, there are narrow pencil pants with side-splits, floral trousers, tie-up shoulder blouses and twin sets — strapped tops with jackets, sarong sarees with backless blouses and A-line ghagras with long coats in two tiers. There are others
offering still funkier clothes in daisy prints, straw and pewter,
combined with a variety of footwear in denim, checks and metal to
match. Style pundits are describing this as a ‘post-minimalistic and
individualistic’ look — whatever that might mean.
(MF) |