DESPITE stiff competition from sarees and trouser suits, the salwar-kameez has maintained its position as the most practical and elegant garment in Indian fashion. And as women rise to positions of authority at the workplace, this timeless combination is fast reinventing itself as a viable option in power dressing.

The kameez is getting shorter and colours increasingly muted. The styling and cuts are unfussy and uncluttered, much as elaborate dupattas often make up for the minimalist look. While cotton with self-tone chikan-work is popular among working women, especially in summer, other fabrics are just as hot.

"Women find the salwar-kameej an ideal and smart camouflage for unsightly bulges of the body," says jewellery designer Poonam Soni. "For working women, it is considered savvy, yet traditional. You can make your own style statement with a mix-‘n’-match salwar-kurta or kurti and stole."

Adds Krishma Mehta, a specialist at designing such ensembles: "The salwar-kameez can be worn in many ways — short kurtas, long kurtas, Patiala pants, churidaars and regular salwars. It is amazingly versatile and can look formal as well."

One reason for the renewed interest in salwar-kameez is the endorsement it enjoys from international figures like Madonna, Cherie Blair and Dame Judie Dench. For Indians, constantly on the lookout for role models in the West, this is good enough reason to revert to what was originally a Punjabi dress.

But then, there are some style pointers in keeping with the times:

Steer clear of bright colours, prints and checks. Stick to muted tones, earth colours and basic pastels when you are out on work and mean business.

Also avoid anything with too much embroidery, sequins or badla work. Ornate yokes and elaborate zardozi on the sleeves and hems are passe. Shine is best reserved for the evening — if you must.

Go for salwar-kameezes in crisp cottons, which can be combined with exotic dupattas in ethnic motifs. Make sure you keep the cotton well starched.

Alternately, look at jackets in ethnic weaves for a non-fussy look. Remember, the jacket need not always be a substitutes for the dupatta and must be treated differently in the choice of colours and design.

Modern variants of traditional fabrics like jute and linen are supposed to work best in earth tones beige. However, processed denims and khadi can also present the same look.

Keep your jewellery pared down to the minimum while wearing salwar-kameez. Gone are the days when you could sport chandelier earrings and silver danglers. Even antique gold jewellery from the family heirloom will not do these days, regardless of the occasion.

Short kurtas combined with bootleg trousers can elongate your silhouette. But make sure the trousers are in basic colours of black, navy blue and beige.

If you must get your salwar-kameez tailored to fit, avoid fussy detailing like smocking, piping and cords. Your mother took pride in them 20 years ago, now these are passe.

Mehta’s pret line includes kameezes with woven stoles, embellished pants and Indo-western ensembles in chiffon, georgette and silk. According to the designer, the current demand is for straighter lines, short kurtas and stoles, which lend an "international appeal" to the outfit.

Another designer, Anita Dongre has created knee-length, jute-silk kameezes with fine embroidery, which are coordinated with basic fit trousers. Pin-tuck kurtas with hand-painted dupattas, as well as hand-printed kameezes in geometric designs and folk (warli) motifs are also her USPs.

"Basic classic hues like black, navy, camel and white can be combined with a bright dupatta, stole or scarf for a look that is at once ethnic and contemporary," advises Dongre. "What really works for the woman of today is a clean, unfussy look."

Also very popular is Ritu Kumar’s fusion wear line of printed crepe kurtas (resembling short and long tunics) which are paired with parallel trousers and elaborately embellished stoles for added drama. Many of these are in vegetable dye prints, earth tones and a few in rich hues like cobalt and maroon.

"The salwar-kameez look can never go wrong," says art collector Rani Mistry. "Whether I am at work, at home or socialising, you will find me in salwar-kameez. When I am travelling abroad, it helps me retain the Indianness I am so proud of. It is the most elegant outfit in the category of comfort wear." (MF)