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Sunday
, April 21, 2002
Books

A literary journey of the chaar dhaam
Padam Ahlawat

Badrinath and Kedarnath. The Dhaams in the Himalayas.
by Subhadra Sen Gupta, Rupa, New Delhi, Pp.81 Rs 95

THE author has brought out a series on the chaar dhaam, which are the most sacred places of pilgrimage for the Hindus. These tirthas of Badrinath, Puri, Rameshwaram and Dwarka are located in the most picturesque locations. The books are illustrated with appealing photographs. Beside these there are the seven tirthas (Saptapuri) at Kashi (Varanasi) Kanchi (Kanchipuram), Mayapuri (Haridwar), Ayodhya, Avantika (Ujjain), Mathura and Dwarka. These together are the ten most sacred tirthas.

The Hindu way of worship does not have the tradition of congregational worship. Even in the temple, while the priest performs the puja, each prays on his own in a personal communion with god. There is no rigidity on going to a temple and truth, forgiveness and simplicity are also considered as tirthas.

 

The nearest railheads are at Hardwar, Rishikesh and Dehra Dun, from where buses are available for Badrinath. Badrinath stands on the bank of the Alakananda and the traveller passes through Hardwar and Rishikesh into the hills. The road runs parallel to the Ganga till the confluence of the Bhagirathi and the Alakananda at Dev Prayag. The pilgrim trail follows the path of the Alakananda to Rudraprayag, where the Mandakini joins the Alakananda. The Mandakini leads to Kedarnath, while the Alakananda leads to Vishnu’s Dhaam Badrinath.

Badrinath stands on the left bank where there are a number of hot water springs and waterfalls. Vishnu is worshipped as Badrinarayan at the 9th century Badrinarayan temple. It is said that a flame left in the temple when the temple closes in winter, still flickers when it is opened in spring.

Lord Shiva is worshipped at Kedarnath, where the original temple was built by the Pandavas. Other sacred tirthas are Gangotri, the source of Ganga at Gaumukh, and Yamunotri, the source of Yamuna. Both these places can be reached after an arduous trek of 19 and 13 kilometres respectively.

 

Puri Lord Jagannatha’s Dhaam
by Subhadra Sen Gupta. Rupa, New Delhi. Pp 91. Rs 95

Puri is the second Vishnu Dhaam, where he is worshipped as Jagannatha or Krishna along with Balabhadra and Subhadra. Puri lies on the east coast and is accessible by rail, and road. The rough hewn wooden icons suggest that tribal deities were absorbed into the Hindu pantheon and Krishna transformed into an avtar of Vishnu. There also exists a legend of how the icon of blue Krishna was stolen from a tribal chief named Vishwavasu.

Modelled on the Lingaraja temple of Bhubaneshwar, the Jagannatha temple is huge, employing 6000 priests from 36 clans. The temple has tired spires and the exteriors are profusely decorated with carvings, while the interiors are severely plain. The legendary Rath Yatra that originates at Puri is said to date back to the 10th century. The icons are led in chariots in a splendid procession that is said to re-enact Krishna’s journey from Gokul to Mathura.

Konarak is now an isolated village. But at one time it was an important port. Even though in ruins, the Sun temple of Konarak is a magnificent monument.

The temple spire has collapsed and the main icon has disappeared. By the sides of the platform are carved 24 gigantic wheels and seven horses straining at the reins.

It is these intricately carved wheels that have become a visual symbol of the Sun temple.

Konarak is 35 km from Puri, while Bhubaneshwar is 60 km inland. Shiva is worshipped in Orissa and there are 500 temples dedicated to Shiva around the Bindusarovar lake.

The city derives its name from Tribhubaneshwar, a name for Shiva. Bhubaneshwar is famous for its mammoth Lingaraja temple built in the 10th century by Yayati, who also built the city.