FROM a time when they were no more than ‘trouses’, or covers for the legs, trousers have come to be recognised as a key element that decides the look for both men and women. Hip hugging or baggy, high waist or low, narrow or flared, they reflect the wearer sense of style and, of course, personality.

Trousers are also the most used and abused garment in anybody’s wardrobe. Hence comfort becomes an important consideration while choosing a pair. A well-cut trouser in the right colour and fabric and with a perfect finish is what every designer tries to offer.

As Ravi Bajaj puts it: "A good pair of well-fitting trousers can greatly compliment the other pieces in an outfit. The look can be further enhanced by adding subtle touches in the construction such as the angle of pockets, stitching details... and the permanent creases."

"For me, the guiding principle is comfort," adds Aki Narula, another designer. "This is the reason I choose really soft fabrics for trousers. I believe in designing really comfortable pants which are low-waisted and well-fitting with a hint of elasticity."

Style or comfort, current options vary from formal and structured pants to casual drawstrings and cargos, not to mention flat-front hipsters, khakis, bell-bottoms, wrinkle-free diet chinos, moleskin corduroys and distressed jeans to project the desired image.

Some may like the slouchy look, whether it is in the denim or khadi, while others would stick to the straight and narrow, with a slight flare towards the ankle. The latest in this is the pyjama jeans (with drawstrings), though semi-formal pleated trousers are more popular.

Then there are the tight-fitting, knee-length breeches worn by the adventurous and avant garde in what should be a throwback to the 18th century European styles. In fact, breeches were precursors to modern-day trousers, as designed originally by George Bryan Brummell in 1812.

For women, Elizabeth Miller takes the credit for designing what was initially a cross between a short skirt and baggy trousers gathered at the ankles. From there, the trouser story developed from bloomers (after Amelia Jenks Bloomer) to the current unisex, slim-fit flat-fronts.

"Flat-front hipsters are very hot right now, both for men and women" says designer Rohit Gandhi. "In fact, you can wear them with a formal jacket and a tie, provided they are not very low. For those who prefer low-fitting hipsters, I have a leather version with a bootleg cut near the ankle."

Apart from leather, some of the unconventional material getting into trouser designing includes enzyme-washed twill, moleskin corduroy and wool. Leading brands are offering plain front trousers and wrinkle-free chinos made from two-ply super-combed cotton, which is 25 per cent lighter than regular cotton.

Chinos are actually derivatives from military pants, worn by Chinese soldiers. Other versions of military pants include dockers and khakis (in shades of brown and beige), introduced by the British in India in 1906. Today, khakis are available in a variety of fabrics.

In this range of casual wear, there are also jeans — for long, an essential part of the wardrobe of any style-conscious person. Apart from the original straight-fit, jeans now come in a variety of styles — from anti-fit and bootleg to three-quarter and slim-fit — depending upon the age and frame of the wearer.

"Jeans are on a comeback trail this season," says Richa Puranesh, the brand manager of a leading clothing house. "And it is no longer the old-fashioned regular jeans because denim is now treated in many different ways, such as over-dying, sandblasting and so on."

Style-wise also, jeans have gone through many phases of change, ranging from flat-fronts and pleated to the multi-pocketed, baggy, butt-hugging and brass-buckled versions. But ultimately, it is brand loyalty rather than designer wear that rules the jeans market.

Even then, people like Narula continue to experiment, be it with drawstring versions or with embroidered motifs. "I am also working a lot with distressed denim, which basically means giving jeans a very worn-out look," Narula adds.

— MF