Is henna a good conditioner?
Saloni Kaul

A reputed hair care institute in Hyderabad recently announced that henna could have no beneficial effects on the hair. On the contrary, it said, regular application seals the cuticles and does not allow the hair to breathe, thereby rendering it dry in the long run.

For most Indians who swear by the herb as a natural conditioner and colouring agent, the announcement has caused much confusion. Dermatologists and beauty therapists are also questioning the findings of the seminar organised by the institute, as they run counter to traditionally-held beliefs and practices.

That henna (or mehndi, as it is popularly known) has natural protective and restorative powers for the hair is well established in ancient literature and scriptures. The herb, which is said to have originated in ancient Egypt, was imported to India by Mughal invaders as an antidote to sunstroke and high fever.

"It is a wonderful cooling agent," explains Monica Sabharwal, a well-known dermatologist. "What it does to the hair is that it strengthens, thickens and cleans... it improves the texture of the hair, making it soft, shiny and manageable. It also lends body and bounce to the hair."

Opponents of henna argue that it is in altering the natural structure of the hair that much of the problem lies. It robs the hair of its natural sheen, making it brittle and restricts its growth. Moreover, it destroys the protein, keratin, which contributes to the health of the hair.

What is required is a clear understanding of your hair texture. What henna can do for one hair type, might turn out to be completely destructive for another. Besides, there are many ways to apply the paste. And above all, you need to be certain about whether you want henna to serve as a hair conditioner or a colouring agent — or both.

As any dermatologist would explain, the hair grows out of a pit-shaped follicle in the skin and consists of three layers — an inner layer, the middle layer containing the pigment which gives it colour and the outer layer, called the cuticle. For people with fine hair, the inner layer could be missing.

"The cuticle is the most important part to be affected by dyes and chemicals," Sabharwal points out. "It is very porous, made up of tiny, transparent scales that overlap. If the scales lie flat, light is reflected and the hair looks shiny. Moreover, when the oil glands of the scalp are active, the hair remains well lubricated. In the absence of these two factors, the hair will look limp and dry."

"For people with dry, fine or fly-away hair, henna is not a good conditioner," advises Vibha Jain, a much-revered cosmetologist. "It is not suitable for older people either. People with normal to oily hair can use it, but sparingly — say once in 45 days. When applied in excess, henna can cause drying of hair."

People with hair types other than the oily and normal are advised to mix some castor oil in the henna powder before application. However, when used as a colouring agent, the hair has to be free from oil so as to enable the dye to "catch".

Among the many applications, the most common is to mix henna powder with lemon juice, curd and egg and make a thick paste. Oil is optional, depending on the dryness of the hair. You could also use a decoction of strong coffee or tea, if you want a brownish tinge to the hair.

Another popular concoction involves boiling the extracts of two beetroots and six to eight shoe flowers with the henna solution for 20 minutes. The mixture is then allowed to settle for half an hour and just five minutes before application, a teaspoon of vinegar is added. This would leave a burgundy sheen to the hair.

Yet another method would be to make a paste of henna powder, lemon juice (3-4 teaspoons) and dry, powdered amla (one tablespoon). Blend well by beating in some sour curd. Let the paste stand for half an hour (ideally in an iron container) and dab on the hair, right down to the roots.

While applying henna, wear rubber gloves and use a flat plastic tail comb with long bristles. Part the hair into small sections and after applying on each section, wrap it around the head. You can wear a plastic cap over this. Generally, henna can be kept on for 30 minutes if used as a conditioner. But as a dye, it must be left for hours, depending upon the intensity of the colour desired.

(MF)