EVER tried wearing a chiffon sari with a collared voile blouse...or perhaps a heavily embroidered brocade outfit with cowl neck? It is not that you cannot or must not try out these options, but then, either way, you would be revealing more about yourself than you could possibly care to.

The neckline of your dress speaks louder than the embroidery, colour, texture or any other attribute that might distinguish it. It is the most defining aspect of an outfit. Apart from comfort and convenience, the neckline spells character, contributes to your sex appeal and most important, can make or mar your look.

Neckline, the most defining aspect of an outfit, can make or mar your look

Little wonder, it is one of the first things a designer works on before even conceptualising an outfit. Depending upon the fabric, style, the constitution of the wearer and weather conditions, the neckline can be round or scooped, V-shaped or collared crew neck or halter neck...the possibilities are endless.

"Most people do not realise the application that goes into creating a perfect neckline," observes Preeti Raina, a Delhi-based designer. "We just take it for granted. But the moment something goes wrong with its cut or shape, we notice it, but are not always able to say so in as many words."

Basically a perfect neckline ought to fit properly on the wearer. Regardless of its shape, it should neither be too tight nor too loose. Just as a V-neck should not gape, a crew neck must not choke. For pullover garments, the neck should slip over the head comfortably and fall flat against the body.

Then there are certain basics that can enhance the wearer’s looks. For instance, women with small busts can wear all kinds of necklines from boat necks to sweetheart, halter, Chinese collars, square and cowl neck.

Women with bigger busts or broad shoulders must, however, refrain from wearing these and instead go for round or V-necks. Again, those with thin necks should avoid both V-necks and funnel collars. And women who do not want to show even a little cleavage, are advised is to expose the collarbone. It emphasises femininity.

For sari-blouses, a round neck is always the best. Not only does it suit most Indian women, it is easy to embellish as well. With kurtas though, the options can range from a plunging V-necks to Chinese collars to boat-shaped and cowl necks.

"There are a number of ways an elegantly cut neckline can be highlighted," says Anju Modi, another designer. "You can trim it with lace or add sequins. You can attach loops or a differently cut fabric to it. But then, you must remember that a good neckline must complement an outfit and not draw attention."

An opposing view to this is that necklines should not be subjected to so many restrictive dos and don’ts and surely, generalisations are even more risky. At times, the style of the garments might demand a cluttered neckline that might look more elegant than a plain and simple option.

As Adarsh Gill puts it: "You cannot discuss the neckline in isolation. It is after all, only a part of the garment and what works and what does not depends upon the look in totality. Moreover, you cannot disregard current fashion trends."

Trends, of course, indicate that the accent is on making a sexual statement. With sleeves getting shorter and hemlines rising, necklines are only falling in line at providing increased exposure. The bare-dare look also goes well with well-toned bodies and western outfits.

"The necklines are getting deeper than ever, with the scoop or V-neck becoming really hot," says Madhu Jain, a veteran of some of the most tantalising designs in tops, kurtas, blouses, shirts and jackets. "But hotter still are the halter necks."

In formal wear, Gill believes that Chinese collars should be popular once again and in cooler climes, the crew neck that lies close to the nape will be fashionable. "But then again, much would depend upon the personal preferences of people and the kind of clothes they want to wear," she adds. (MF)