Saturday, February 16, 2002
F A S H I O N


‘Tight is right’ remains the mantra
Anita Arora

SOME things never change in fashion. The trouser-blazer combination, sarees and salwar-kameez are some dominant outfits that have defied trends. What has changed is the way they are worn, the embellishments and accessories, not to mention the frills and finish. And that could make all the difference.

For instance, the salwar-kameez has remained the staple of most Indian designers, its cut, colour and presentation changing with every season. At times, a revival of old themes can take the industry by storm. Parallel trends exist too, making a singular look difficult to assess in entirety.

Likewise, there could be dominant patterns among varied themes, Sarees could get tighter, belts thicker, trousers looser, shoes flatter, hair curlier.... These are aspects that designers and stylists zoom in on while deciding the look of the future.

 


"I would say we are in for brighter, more adventurous and funkier clothes," says Mumbai-based Azeem Khan. "Red will endure as the favoured colour as it looks very good on Indian skin. Besides, there will be a good deal of fabric mixes and combining of textures."

Another prediction Khan makes is the resurgence of the double-toned saree — a take-off from the Ganga-Jamuna version of yore where the pallu need not necessarily match the pattern on the body of the saree. Contrasting shades like maroon and blue or copper and black would dominate.

Furthermore, ‘tight is right’ will remain the prevailing mantra — to the extent that lycra and spandex mixes are fast replacing traditional cottons and silks for churidar-kurtas. "The look is definitely very feminine and sexy," comments designer Lascelles Symmons.

"Mini skirts will be in as never before," he adds. "Similarly, socks with stilettoes will come in. In keeping with this theme, menswear — even formals — will veer towards the sporty."

These indications were evident last year when Malini Ramani had her models dressed in sequined tops in lotus motifs and mirrors, while Manish Malhotra got kurtas short and fitted and Rocky S gave menswear a touch of colour with supermodel Rahul Dev sporting a one-shoulder off outfit in shocking pink!

It was a time when funky themes like men’s bras and skirts showed up, but nobody took them seriously. A new term, Indikitsch, was coined for ruffles and colour, excessive ornamentation, using strings for the back and embellishments on blouses.

Amidst all this chaos, the classic still scored the points. Eternal black and ethereal white endured amidst the fiery reds in floaty chiffon and sarees sculpted tight. Camouflage prints on T-shirts and cocktail dresses, military boots and fatigue-inspired pants, however, turned into passing fads.

Wendell Rodricks called it a "collective creative cloud" — a phenomenon wherein designers of different sensibilities hit upon a common style statement (albeit with different themes) at the same time. It is this accent on glamour that is being carried forward.

Hemant Trevedi, however, interprets this as indicative of "highly individualistic styles" emerging in the forefront. So while fabric options veer about texured cottons, raw silk and georgettes, the embellishment aspect remains toned down and silhouettes continue to flatter the body.

As for colours, he feels that brightness will soon make way for subtlety — a view shared by Rocky S, who is pitching for brown, pistachio and copper. "Fabrics will be ethereal, but menswear will see detailing with embroidery and stitching. Accessories will take on the antique look and crystal jewellery will be back in demand."

Make-up and hair styles will echo the prevailing emphasis on romancing the soul. "Red as a hair colour will endure, but not so much of tight curls," advises hair expert Coleen Khan. "More long and lengthy, the better.... We are looking at the fallen-angel look for women."

"Hair colour has entered India in a big way," observes make-up artist Clint Fernandes. "Textured hair, as in roped or braided, is also in. But curls will soon be replaced by poker-straight hair. It goes very well with iridescent make-up like bronze and copper. Pearly, luminous eyes, bright lips and for the daring, orange!"

(MF)