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Sunday
, February 3, 2002
Article

Raising a toast to apple trees
Roshni Johar

KINGS, presidents, ambassadors and such elite often raise and clink their crystal champagne-filled stem glasses at banquets, to drink a toast to peace and goodwill among nations or even a long life on imperial or royal birthdays or toast any occasion, the protocol may demand.

Wassailing the fruit trees was a heathen pratice
Wassailing the fruit trees was a heathen pratice

Have you ever heard of people raising a toast to their fruit trees? Well, this unusually charming custom does exist in certain rural areas of England. It is traditionally called ‘wassailing trees’. The term ‘wassailing’ pertains to old Anglo-Saxon times when a pledge was taken while sipping a drink, usually wine. It was equivalent to a toast to ‘your health’, it being responded with the ‘drink haile’. Interestingly, "it was common to drink ‘Wassail to the Lord,’ without any kind of irreverence." Understandably, over the years, while the customary drinking and pledging has remained, the subject began to include various connotations apart from ‘your health.’

Wassailing the fruit trees was one of the old heathen practices, which were incorporated, rather supplanted into Christianity. In fact, a letter of Pope Gregory ! written to Augustine of Canterbury directs him to allow and even encourage harmless popular heathen customs like wassail, which could be of Christian interpretation. Therefore, it is natural that this relic of heathen practice has been handed down as a traditional Christmas custom.

 


Dr Rondel Harris opines that wassailing apple trees is probably a remnant of a very old, almost forgotten cult of the Apple God, the apple tree being the first fruit tree in England to be improved by cultivation. Witches and ghosts were believed to reside in the crown of apple trees. T.G. Crippen, an authority on Christmas lore, feels that this rustic custom reflects an agricultural society, which asks spirits of the fruit trees to bestow and bless them with more fruit. Perhaps it is also suggestive of thanksgiving of ‘fruitfulness’ of fruit trees.

Wassail is celebrated during Yule, which is ‘not a single day but a whole period of mid-winter festivity, the special time of joy and devotion to the Giver of fruitful seasons.’

Blowing of horns heralds wassail celebration. Often, kettles are beaten to make a great noise. At times guns are fired, loaded with powder only.

A group of merrymakers go to the orchards, carrying a pail or a jar or even a bowl of ale or cider containing roasted apples, sugar and toast. They stop at the largest or the most fruitful of apple trees and then toast it by sprinkling the drink all around it and sometimes by dipping a few of its’ branches in the container. cider or ale is drunk and ditties are sung, the theme being invariably, asking the tree to give more apples.

Singing songs, rather nonsense verses, is an essential part of wassailing apple trees. A popular one is

‘Wassail, wassail all round the town;

The zider-cup’s white and the zider’s brown;

Our zider is made vrom good apple trees,

And now my vine vellows we’ll drink if you please.,

Interestingly, apple trees are more wassailed than plum, pear and cherry trees as is evident from this song:

‘Every bough, apple big,

Every bough, apples enow....’

Yet this one from Somerset starts off as

‘Apple tree, apple tree, I wassail thee To blow and to bear....’

It was believed, especially in Devon and Cornwall, that tree spirits were incarnated in robins and small birds. Little boys representing these birds, climb apple trees and cry, ‘Tit-tit, I want more to eat., Then a piece of cake, cheese or bread is given to him or is dipped in cider or ale and placed in the forks of branches of the trees ‘for the robins’.

The British had other reasons to wassail apple trees. This Biblical fruit had crept into their very culture. It was an old remedy for sore eyes while Burton considered it as an aid for melancholy. During the reign of Queen Elizabeth 1, sweet apples were smelt to regain one’s strength.

Apples are popular in India too. In Himachal an apple revolution was ushered in by the American missionary Samuel Evans Stokes which ultimately changed the face of the State’s economy making Himachal, the Apple State of India.

Undeniably, an apple culture has crept in areas where this fruit is grown. When we can revere other trees, why can’t we just have the same feeling for the apple or the plum trees? Why can’t we rave about the unique beauty of apple blossoms or even enthusiastically celebrate the joy of apple-laden branches in its harvest season? After all apples are the bestowers of the bounty of the hill folk.

The Japanese take time off to appreciate and enjoy the sheer magnificent beauty of their cherry blossoms in a festival called Hanami. Perhaps proximity to apples has made us insensitive to view them and to say, ‘Oh to be in Himachal, now that apple harvest’s here’ (with apologies to Browning).

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