TUCKED away in a secluded corner of Mandi district in Himachal Pradesh lies Chindi, a little-known idyllic hamlet set amidst dense pine forests and apple orchards. Although remote and visited by only a handful of travellers, Chindi is one of the most picturesque places in the state. It offers unlimited vistas of rolling mountains, deep valleys and dense forests that support diverse wildlife. Isolated from the hustle and bustle of hill stations, Chindi’s rural ambience and leisurely way of life promise a quiet holiday experience.

Chindi can be reached via Shimla (93 km) or Mandi (104 km). The road from Shimla takes you down the Sutlej through Naldera and then to Tattapani, famous for its hot water springs. Not far from Tattapani, lies the famous Shiv cave at Sarour. It is a large limestone cave a little off the road and has interesting formations of stalagmites. Further up as the altitude increases the landscape changes. Past Alshindi village the road suddenly loops towards the right and runs straight over a ridge that offers a breathtaking view of the hills and valleys on both sides. Just short of Churag, a road bifurcates to the right to Mahunag, famous for a temple dedicated to Mahunag, a powerful deity of the region. The ancient temple is built in traditional pahari style and is worth a visit. Every year, the Mahunag idol is taken to Mandi where the deities of all surrounding valleys assemble during the Shivratri fair. Not far from Churag lies Chindi, perched high above the Sutlej. The HPTDC’s Hotel Mamaleshwar at Chindi is a refreshing retreat and an ideal base from where one can explore the picturesque countryside.

Chindi is the gateway to the Karsog valley, famous for its scenic beauty and cultural heritage. The wide fertile valley encircled by green hills is a patchwork of tiny terraced fields that portrays a picture of rural harmony. At the heart of this scenic valley lies the town of Karsog, only 13 km from Chindi. Karsog is famed for its ancient temples. The main shrine in the town is the Mamaleshwar temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Built on massive carved wooden pillars, it is famous for its artistic woodwork and carved stone statues of deities, particularly Shiva. Among the prized objects in the temple is a single grain of wheat weighing about 250 gm! Another article worth mentioning is a temple drum measuring about 6 feet in length.

The Kamaksha Devi temple at Kao, 7 km from Karsog, is another important shrine in the region. The temple is dedicated to Goddess Durga and legend has it that she killed the demon Mahishasur here. Consequently, several male buffaloes, that symbolise the demon, are sacrificed in the temple every year during the Navratras. The temple is an outstanding example of Pagoda-style architecture and has stunning wood carving.

Chindi is also a paradise for hikers and trekkers. It offers a number of trek routes of which the most popular is the one that goes to the Shikari Devi temple. This unique roofless temple crowns the 3359-metre high peak towards the north-west of Chindi. The 14-km trek route that winds up the Mahasu ridge through an incredible diversity of Himalayan flora and fauna is demanding but rewarding. The view of the distant snow-covered mountains and wooded hills from the top is breathtaking. There is a forest rest house and a serai in the temple where one can spend the night. On the way back another route that passes over several ridges takes one to Kamrunag, famous for its temple adjoining a lake, and further down to Rohanda, on the Chindi-Mandi road. For the more adventurous traveller, a kutcha motorable road snakes down the other side of Shikari Devi to Jhenjhali. The Jhenjhali valley is one of the most remote and untouched spots in the state. Jhenjhali is connected to Mandi by an all-weather road. Another place worth a visit is Pangna on the Mandi road not far from Chindi, where the magnificent ruins of the capital of the former Suket state and its temples unfold tales of its former glory.