Saturday, January 12, 2002
G E T A W A Y


Choor Chandni beckons
Roshni Johar

THE enchanting Churdhar mountain in Sirmaur is one of Shivalik’s highest summits. Moonlight forms a shimmering silver arc — like a bangle — over its peak, giving it the poetic name of Choor Chandni.

A view of Choor Chandni from Bathaudhar
A view of Choor Chandni from Bathaudhar

It is believed that this is the very place where Hanuman discovered the life-restoring Sanjivini booti, which revived Lakshmana, Lord Rama’s younger brother. Ruins of an ancient town have been discovered at the nearby Dundi Devi.

Vigne, a foreign explorer who conquered the Choor peak in 1842, hailed it ‘one of world’s noblest mountains’. Other travellers like James Baille Fraser, author of Himla Mountains, and Lt. George Francies White, writer of Views in India, Chiefly Among Himalayan Mountains, who climbed the peak in early 19th century, have also vividly described Churdhar, especially its flora.

 


Folklore, temples, flora and Churdhar’s snowy peak’s proximity to Chandigarh, Punjab, Haryana and Delhi attracts pilgrims and trekkers in all seasons, May and June being the best months. The Solan-Rajgarh-Noradhar-Chabdhar-Tisri-Churdhar trek is the one most popular among tourists.

Rajgarh is just 100 km from Chandigarh (39 km from Solan). Endowed with forests of pines and deodars, Rajgarh abounds in stone fruit like peach and plum apart from almonds. Its luscious peaches have earned it the title, ‘Peach Bowl of India.’

With various places of worship around it, Rajgarh serves as a base camp for pilgrims. Gurdwara Baru Sahib is 26 km from it. Tokru Timba Kali at Habban, Guru Itwarnath Math at Thorkniwar, Bijat Devta at Braila, Shaya near Phagu and Satron Devta at Churwadhar attract a number of pilgrims.

The Giri river originating from Kharapathar meanders in at Gaura (14 km). Small fish flow in it, making it an anglers’ delight. Gaura’s popular cuisine is fish curry and rice.

Rajgarh abounds in stone fruit like peach and plum
Rajgarh abounds in stone fruit like peach and plum

Accommodation can be reserved at Rajgarh through the SDM or Executive Engineer. Tented accommodation is available below Halonipul, on the Habban road, 2 km from Rajgarh. Shalana’s helipad, 3 km away, is not yet developed.

From Rajgarh, the 27-km drive to Noradhar goes past Churwadhar and Deedag, 6km and 12 km away, respectively.

From there commences the 16-km-long trek to Choor Chandni. After a steep 2 km ascent over rocks, one arrives at the lush green Chabdhar, which offers telephone, electricity and water facilities. From here, it’s a 7-km walk to Tisri from where it’s yet another 7-km rocky assault to Churdhar.

A motorable road from Noradhar to Tisri is under construction. Rain shelter at Tisri requires maintenance. Toilets and signboards too are needed. The scenic beauty of the place has to be preserved. The disfiguring of trees and rocks must not be allowed. Natural water is available at two places between Chabdhar and Tisri and at one point between Tisri and Churdhar.

Nomads migrate to this area to escape the summer heat of the Paonta valley (Doon Kaleshwar forests). The lilting tunes on their flutes are both enchanting and soothing.

A wealth of herbs and beautiful alpine flora cover these Himalayan slopes. Walking through the wildlife sanctuary, one spots the spectacular monal, Himachal’s state bird, along with koklass and kaleej pheasants. The canine-toothed musk deer and the endangered Himalayan black bear inhabit the higher forests.

Below the summit is the deodar-roofed, single-storeyed, square temple of Srigul with a lingam, dedicated to Shiva (Chooreshwar Mahadev). Pilgrims sing and dance at night during the Navratras fair in this ancient temple.

Trekkers tread over small glaciers on their way to the wind-blown Churdhar summit, which has moderate to heavy snowfall (average of 33 feet snow). Often the Srigul temple gets buried under it.

On a clear sunny day, you can be rewarded with a view of the Badrinath and Kedarnath shrines, Gangetic plains, the Sutlej river and hills of Shimla and Chakrata. Atop the Churdhar summit lie the lingams of Shiva and Kali, where once goat and sheep were sacrificed. Devotees hoist flags and make offerings here. Accommodation is available in the temple( three rooms) and the nearby serai, which offers four rooms. Beddings is available for Rs 10 per night. The temple provides utensils too.