IN the recent Lakme Fashion Week held in Mumbai, designer Manish Malhotra, 34, was accorded a unique honour. His haute collection was the crowning glory of the event, which was attended by top celebrities of the city. Another unique feat that he has achieved is that he has designed the look of stars, particularly Kareena Kapoor, Amitabh Bachchan, Jaya Bachchan and Akshay Kumar, in the five top banner films — Shah Rukh Khan’s Ashoka, Karan Johar’s Kabhi Khushi Kabhi Ghum, Dharmesh Darshan’s Haan, Maine Bhi Pyar Kiya, Yash Chopra’s Mujhse Dosti Karoge?, Suraj Barjatya’s Main Prem Diwaani and Raj Kumar Santoshi’s Lajja — which will be released during the last months of 2001. In spite of his success, Manish remains his usual, relaxed self, ready to discuss his work even in the midst of scores of fittings and wads of colour swatches.

"I was never formally trained in fashion or design," Manish says candidly, "I come from a middle-class Punjabi family of Mumbai. My father has a business of dealing with air-conditioning systems and he was keen that I should join him. But I was good at sketching and wanted to do something creative, something totally different."

Manish met his senior, Hemant Trevedi, while still in college and was persuaded to try his luck in modelling. "I did some ramp shows but did not enjoy that profession much. There was no money in it and the opportunities were few and far between. Meanwhile, my cousin’s husband, David Dhawan, who was a film director, asked me to design clothes for Juhi Chawla for his film. Though the clothes were simply awful, my career as a designer began right there!"

"After that first attempt in 1989, I designed clothes for Sridevi. Through her, I met many other stars and film-makers. But my turning point was the film Rangeela, in which I changed the total look of Urmila Matondkar. There was no looking back after the film’s success and Urmila’s rise to stardom in her new, sexy avatar. I designed the total look of Karisma Kapoor for Raja Hindustani and changed her personality completely. I styled her jewellery with hoop earrings, gave her figure-hugging clothes and changed her make up too. After this, I moved on to a string of superhit films like Dil To Pagal Hai, Kuch Kuch Hota Hai, Dilwale Dulhaniya Le Jayenge, Hum Saath Saath Hai, Kaho Na Pyar Hai, Mast, Dhadkan, Mohobbatein and Mujhe Kuch Kehna Hai. My career as a designer of film clothes and styles was well-established after all these hits.

"I am proud that I have set a new trend in designing outfits for filmstars. Before this ‘total look’ revolution hit the film industry, heroines were loud, studio-tailor-styled-clothes, which were garish and jarring on the eye. No one ever took film fashions seriously and no right-thinking woman ever emulated any star. With some opposition to begin with, I started to ask for the script, the description of the type of the character the heroine was playing and the situations in which she would be seen. I started participating in the picturising of the song sequences. Slowly and steadily, I began to design the hairstyle, jewellery, clothes, footwear, and even defined the heroine’s gait and manner of talking. For example, one should see Shilpa Shetty in her earlier films and then see her in Dhadkan. There is a world of difference in her looks, acting and style. I have found that despite their acting skills, heroines and heroes in Hindi films often need a certain glitzy and sophisticated glamour and I have tried to bring these elements into Bollywood.

"Earlier, society women looked at supermodels as fashion icons. Film stars were considered garish and loud. This perception has changed dramatically and stars, not only in films, but also in the many shows, promos, ads and even in their social appearances, have become models of good looks and perfect, proportionate figures. What’s more, male stars have joined the ‘total look’ brigade too. I redesigned Akshay Kumar’s look for Ek Rishta and am designing for Amitabh Bachchan in Kabhi Khushi Kabhi Ghum. I help out male stars with their fitness schedules and create their clothes in addition to changing their gait and mannerisms for a particular role. The next star I will work with is Abhishek Bachchan.

"When Ibegan working in the film industry, the scene was really bad for designers. No one paid good money and most cheques bounced. I too have wads of bounced cheques. So most designers shied away from this humiliating treatment. Fortunately, I have been able to break this cycle and succeeded in establishing styling and designing as a department in the film industry."

Manish feels that there is a real dearth of good models in the fashion industry today. "Young, good-looking men and women are naturally attracted to cinema and television. Stars earn really big money, not only through films, but also through shows, TV programmes and advertisements. Nowadays, stars are paid for their appearance on television too."

After 10 brilliantly successful years as a designer for stars, Manish began to dream of his own label and an outlet. He along with Yash and Avanti Birla opened Reverie, an outlet in a prime location in Mumbai. But without the infrastructure of a sound team of embroiderers, tailors, assistants and a well-equipped workshop, the store did not do well. After a few months, SDS (Sheetal Design Studio) offered him all that was lacking in Reverie and he moved into SDS to create, for the first time, a pret and couture line for the clients of SDS. "This is a new experience for me," he says, "Dealing with day-to-day or festive fashion is a challenge. At present, most designers have moved to Delhi because the market is better there. In Mumbai, men and women are too busy in their work. They jump into their jeans or salwar kameezes and buzz off to work or to play. They usually don’t buy or wear expensive clothes. Dressing up for festive occasions is comparatively a North Indian custom. Delhi is full of fashion-conscious families. Therefore, for designers there’s plenty of business in Delhi, Punjab and even Haryana. I have stayed on in Mumbai because I have plenty of film work."

Manish is currently working for films that will be released later this year. Manish is styling the look of almost all stars in these movies. He is also styling Sonali Bendre’s look for in the new Star Plus show Kya Masti Kya Dhoom, which has become quite popular.

In November, Manish will present his new collection of haute couture collection. All these are in Manish’s favourite soft shades of blue, green, peach, pink, and silver grey. For most of his shows, he designs the accessories and gives directions for the make-up, and the complete look.

"Indeed, I am hoping to start a venture called "Total Look" in which I will make a star out of any willing person. Today, in this media-driven age, everybody must look well turned out. So politicians, industrialists, entrepreneurs, socialites and even professionals must look well groomed in addition to having excellent mastery over their chosen professions!"