IN the run up to the festival season, fashion houses in India are displaying a peculiar restraint. Unlike earlier years when gross ostentation and glitter marked the autumnal festivities, the mantra this time around is "less can be more".

Sleeves, even short ones, have become passe

So straight, clean cuts have replaced excessive frills, clutter and heavy embroidery. Embellishments are subtle and accessories almost absent, while the focus turns increasingly on to fabric textures, perfect fits and, above all, a feel-good look.

For most of us, this translates to not having to hide under tent-like apparel and being able to expose to good effect. At the same time, those expecting some leg show and bare midriffs would be disappointed. Moderation and comfort are the key words determining the minimalist look of the upcoming season.

Gauging the mood of moment, designer Monisha Bajaj observes that silhouettes are turning straight and uncluttered as the emphasis shifts from dressing up to dressing down. "The look is under stated with an accent on well-fitting clothes," she points out.

Upasana Gulati, who is working on a "very sleek and chic look", advises those tempted by embroidery to keep it subtle and on the edges. "Embellishments have to be minimal while the fabric must be wispy — soft, feminine and ultra-light," she insists.

Oddly enough, even as chiffon, georgette and cotton are available in plenty, the fabric that scores over all else is linen. Be they shirts or skirts, tunics or even strappy tops, this light-weight fabric is the hottest favourite of the season. Imported synthetics blended with lycra follow closely, in terms of popularity.

For traditional ethnic wear though, cotton is preferred over others. Kurtas are short and slim with either V or boat necks, while churidaars are fast replacing conventionally structured salwars. In certain rare cases, salwars are taking the shape of tailored trousers!

"My fit-and-flow kurtas convey a happy mood," says Bajaj. "Even my colours are upbeat. Lime, yellow, green, orange and lavender are not only pleasing to the eye, you also feel good wearing them. I feel clothing must always convey a celebration of life."

Gulati’s interpretation of ‘fun clothes’ includes sleeveless tops in western wear. "Sleeves, even short ones, have become passe," she explains. "If you are not comfortable with straps, you can opt for very short sleeves. But you certainly cannot be seen with long sleeves."

In western wear, you have necklines plunging deeper, spaghetti tops turning bright and colourful and pastel halters showing up with bold, summery prints. The inspiration clearly comes from lingerie and gym wear — fit only for those with a good body and the right attitude.

Even high-street fashion counters are packed with tank tops in linen, sheer sleeveless shirts with bead buttons, crystal-embedded spaghetti straps, camisoles trimmed with dainty lace.... These are being paired with colour-coordinated straight skirts, cargo pants and shorts.

Says Richa Puranesh of a leading fashion store in Bombay: "The must-haves this season are well-fitted tops teamed with flat-front trousers, pyjamas, shorts and jeans. We also have a range of three-quarter and detachable cargo pants, fitted capris and ankle-length trousers in stretch twill, dyed skirts and hot pants."

In menswear too, there’s unprecedented excitement with colours playing a big role. Instead of staid whites, blues and beiges, shirts are showing up in pink, peach, lime, pale blue and yellow. Checks and stripes on a white base are also in.

For formal occasions, men can pick up lightly embroidered linen shirts in pastel shades and coordinate them with double-colour silk ties and trousers in stone-washed hues. As far as trousers go, the best bet is the wrinkle-resistant, pleatless variety without turn-ups.

"But the real excitement lies in the informal range," avers Ashish Soni, a specialist of sorts on men’s clothes. "Trousers have become shorter, denims have become anti-fit and cargos are ruling. For check or striped shirts, you can have combinations of white with pink, white with lime and so on."

In all this, the range of fabric options being offered can be mind-boggling. Premium men’s brands boast of interesting effects such as drop needles, over knots, speciality knits, stretch polyester, ombre-dyed jersey and ribs, knits and cotton nylons, wrinkle resists, unwashed denims and polyester weaves.

But ultimately what is most popular is pure, natural cotton.

— MF