Where Divinity Resides
By A.C. Katoch

THE Kangra valley in Himachal Pradesh is known for its colourful history, culture and natural beauty. Dharamsala, the district headquarters of Kangra, was put on the international map with the arrival of the Dalai Lama, the Tibetan spiritual and temporal leader, in 1961. For Tibetans, living in different parts of the world, Dharamsala is considered a mini-Lhasa. Tibetans and foreign scholars visit this place in large numbers.

Both Dharamsala and the Kangra valley have a lot to offer to visitors. There are a number of ancient shrines, forts and other age-old monuments in the valley. It is also a pilgrimage centre. Every year lakhs of tourists and devotees from all over India visit the shrines of Chintpurni, Jawalaji, Varajeshwari (Kangrewali) and Chamunda.

Raja Dharam Chand Katoch of Kangra hill state (1528-1563) founded Dharamsala as a hill station. Earlier, this place was known as Bhagsu. The Raja had his palace at Dharamkot, a few kilometres away from the present McLeodganj where the Dalai Lama lives. The ruins of the palace can still be seen in the picturesque Dharamkot. The Raja was attracted by the natural beauty of Dharamsala, particularly its upper areas, towards the beautiful Dhauladhar ranges. Thus from being the winter abode of only the gaddis (shepherds), Dharamsala turned into a hill resort. In summer, the gaddis move to Chamba, crossing the mighty Dhauladhars.

In Dharamsala, McLeodganj is popular among visitors. The area was named after Sir D. McLeod, Lieutenant-Governor of the then Kangra hill state of Punjab. The British moved the cantonment from Kangra town to McLeodganj in 1849. Thereafter, Kangra remained one of the hill states of Punjab under the British. The climate of Kangra town, which remains fairly hot, did not suit the British. Therefore, they considered Dharamsala, a suitable place to live in.

By 1855 A.D., the British had made Dharamsala the headquarters of greater Kangra. They made plans to further beautify Dharamsala, which had been conceived as a hill station by Raja Dharam Chand Katoch. The British beautified the hills by planting various types of indigenous and imported trees, shrubs and flowers. The architecture of various buildings in the cantonment was elegant and aesthetic and in harmony with the natural surroundings.

However, most of these buildings collapsed during the earthquake in Kangra in April, 1905. The St John Church at Dharamsala, built in 1852, and the Lord Shiva Temple of the early 9th century at Baijnath, survived the quake. The church is a still kilometre away from McLeodganj. During the earthquake, 1625 persons, including 25 Europeans and 112 personnel of Gurkha Regiment, died in Dharamsala alone.

At present, Dharamsala is inhabited by more than 5000 Tibetans.

It attracts a large number of visitors from all over the world, particularly those interested in Tibetan culture. The rainfall here is heavy.

Those who are fond of Tibetan food, like to visit McLeodganj. One gets good helpings of thupka, Tibetan bread, gyathuk, noodles, at reasonable rates. One of the oldest shops at McLeodganj Chowk is of M/s Nowrojee and Sons. It was set up in 1860.

About a kilometre away from the market area, is the Tibetan temple dedicated to Lord Buddha. Almost every evening there is a discourse on the teachings of Buddha. Next to the temple is the home of the Dalai Lama. About 2 km away, is the Tibetan Institute for Performing Arts. Near the Dal lake, 3 km from McLeodganj, is the Tibetans’ children village. A number of children, including orphans, are educated and looked after there by Tibetans.

The Tibetans Craft Institute, near the children village, offer training to young Tibetan boys and girls in tailoring, painting, carpet-weaving, etc. The Tibetan Medical Institute is famous for providing medicines made of herbs procured from forests etc.

The Tibetan Library, Archives and the Museum, 2 km from McLeodganj, is a storehouse of rare manuscripts and portraits. Some of the manuscripts relate to four different religions of the Tibetans, namely Nyingma, Sakya, Kargyu and Geluk. Most of the Tibetans are followers of Geluk Monastery. The museum exhibits the 21 forms of Goddess Tara, the beautiful idol of Manju Sri, the Lord of Wisdom, the image of Vajra Bhirava (Lord of Death) with nine heads and a number of ancient idols of gods and goddesses in different forms. The centuries-old paintings of Tibetans school of art are quite artistic. The natural colours used in the paintings reflect technical virtuosity of a high order. A number of tangkas or scroll paintings on canvas adore the museum.

Dharamsala is visited by tourists not only from various parts of India but also from all over the world. The rush to this hill station has considerably increased because it is now connected by air with Delhi.