Sunday, April 22, 2001		Article

AS world attention continues to be focused on rehabilitating the earthquake hit in Gujarat, a unique project piloted by a group of museologists in the town of Vadodara is beginning to take shape. It has nothing to do with the relief work or reconstruction programmes announced by the government.

Launched by V.H. Bedekar, formerly associated with the Museology Department of M.S. University, Vadodara, the project seeks to save the culture and heritage of Chaul, a little known Portuguese settlement on the border of Gujarat and Maharashtra.

The uniqueness of the project lies at preserving in-situ the heritage, rather than confining it to the closed confines of a building. In other words, it would be India’s first "eco-museum" with the culture and traditions of Chaulis being allowed to develop in their natural surroundings.

"For centuries, people in Chaul have managed to maintain their Portuguese identity," says Dr Bedekar. "But now with modernisation creeping in, their rich traditions are in danger of getting lost. The objective of the eco-museum is to preserve the heritage at its place of origin."

Chaulis are actually the progeny from mixed marriages between Portuguese soldiers and local Gujarati women. The soldiers were responsible for the security of the naval fort at Chaul, which was an important centre of international trade from 130 AD to 1786 AD.

According to historical accounts, Portuguese kings used to encourage their soldiers to cohabit with women in lands they had conquered in order to create the impression that they were not oppressors and intended to settle down there. In fact, the Dutch and French also did so at different times in history.

In Chaul, the Indo-Portuguese population had even merged with the mainstream of Indian life, till the Marathas invaded the region and pushed the Portuguese southwards to Goa. Those who were left behind were either killed or taken in imprisonment. But their children were spared.

"The inter-mixing of two cultures led to the emergence of a new dialect known as Korlai Portuguese Creole," informs Bedekar. "This dialect originated around 1515 AD, just 10 years after the first group of Portuguese arrived in Chaul. The language is still in use."

Unlike their cousins in neighbouring Goa (who are also products of mixed-marriages with the Portuguese) the Chaulis are fair-skinned, tall and artistically inclined. Goans like to be known as fun-loving Christians and speak a corrupted form of Portuguese that is closer to Konkani.

The Portuguese of Chaulis is comparatively more refined, but with a sprinkling of Marathi words. Of late though, the younger generation’s upbringing in Marathi is total, following the Government of Maharashtra imposing the language as the "official medium of instruction" in 1964.

Therein lies the problem. "All folk songs, documented history and literature in Creole would come to discuss as very soon, there will be nobody to read or narrate them," warns Bedekar. "An entire culture is at risk of being wiped out forever."

Apart from the language, there are some rituals specific to the community — associated with births, deaths and marriages, which need to be preserved. The hugely popular celebration of Good Friday is no longer observed whereas Hindu festivals like Holi and Diwali are getting increasingly popular.

On his part, Bedekar and his colleagues have tried to convince local leaders of the need to preserve their legacy. "We have told them that we have nothing against Hindu ceremonies as these would only help in promoting communal harmony and their integration in the Indian cultural mainstream," says Bedekar.

"But side by side, they ought to keep the traditions and customs of their forefathers alive. The younger generation of Chaulis can complain of too many distractions, but it is for the family elders to instil a sense of pride in preserving their own culture."

To an extent, Bedekar has succeeded in getting the Chaulis around. He has got the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) and Central Bee Research and Training Institute (CBRTI) also interested in developing two specific skills — scrimshaw work and apiary in the region.

Both skills have become financially viable as handicraft items from seashells and honey are finding a ready market. Besides, an outdoor unit or outpost for the eco-museum is being planned for educating visitors on the maritime heritage of Korlai.

(MF)