WESTERN wear had always been an option Indian designers were aware of but never got serious about. At best, they would mix and match certain design elements of ethnic outfits and ended up creating queer, hybrid styles that were neither here nor there. Such clothes were passed off as east-west fusion wear.

Not any longer, though. Designers are increasingly coming to terms with changing lifestyles and the need for "practical clothing" for the upwardly mobile (read westernised) Indian woman.

But even then, some very diverse and often conflicting signals are emerging. "It is too early to predict which silhouette, colour or fabric will prevail over others," opines Neeraj Kapur, a Mumbai-based textile consultant. "But there are definite design directions we are observing, which could be trendsetters later."

Some such indicators are as follows:

• Body-fitting outfits in nylon, polyester, lycra and microfibres, celebrating the joy of youth, love and leisure. In primary brights (red, blue, yellow and green) with prominent bandings, these tank tops, T-shirts, pencil pants and shorts have already replaced the whites in gyms and on jogging tracks.

• Sensual silhouettes characterised by the shine of silk and synthetics. In dazzling pinks and reds, these are best represented by sequinned T-shorts and scoop-necked sheath dresses with straps and bare backs.

• Perfectly tailored elongated silhouettes with narrow pant ensembles and dresses draped around the body. Mostly in light blues and sea greens, these styles would mark the return of linen and draped viscose in Indian hi-fashion.

• Easy dresses ranging from cigarette pants and zipped shirt blouses to top-stitched pedal pushers and garden blouses. In fresh and cheerful colours of candy, green tints and earthy pinks, these are already available in pure cotton or else, mixed with synthetics for suppleness.

• Strict elongated lines inspired by ceremonial clothing, the emphasis being on projecting sexiness. In natural fibres (with an addition of elasthane), these clothes would range from shades of dark green and indigo to ultramarine violet and cocoa.

Significantly, all these trends are, for once, completely indigenous and driven by demands of comfort and convenience. Climatic conditions and, above all, the availability of a variety of imported material are having a decisive say in style directions.

Besides, as Kapur puts it: "Style predictions emanate from certain existing socio-economic-aesthetic situations that send feelers on what the future holds. For instance, matt textures and the look would be a natural corollary to an economy experiencing depression."

By the same token, boom time would herald a season of high profile labels, and of gloss and shine. "Of course, the classics would stay, but within the matrix of the myriad, fluctuating and whimsical attitudes of the modern generation."

Adds Rajiv Goyal, a veteran at making design forecasts: "The factors that decide fashion trends are market availability of that particular textile, what designers are capable of offering and, most important, the prevailing aesthetic sensibility of the Indian milieu."

In this respect, general expectations in western wear are towards those styles that can be made adaptable to a variety of silhouettes. There is also a clear accent on reds and greens with denim and lace being the other strong influence.

"The whole direction is towards the vibrant and vivacious primary colours, comfortable fits and modernism," explains Kapur. "Otherwise, the Indian working woman could as well stick to her sarees and salwar-kameez ensembles which would never go out of fashion."

Designer Namita Gopinath says the scenario is swaying towards "mood-enhancing" outfits. As one who specialises on made-to-order western wear, she points out that ultimately it would be the "sporty-hip look" with short, corded skirts and peppy jackets that would determine sartorial tastes.

"In other words, Indians would go in for those clothes that would promise an emotional high on the one hand and give value for money on the other hand,’ Gopinath explains. "So don’t be surprised if you see a lot of mix ’n’ matches and designers working exclusively on separates!" (MF)