Saturday, March 31, 2001
F A S H I O N



Sensuous summery styles
By Saloni Kaul

THE Indian fashion industry is witnessing a flurry of activity, even before summer has set in. For once, the excitement is being generated not so much by designers and their latest collections as by what the public expects of them this season.

From all indications, it will be a wild, vibrantly colourful and fun-filled summer for fashion lovers this year. The accent is on romance and sensuousness, even as high-techno gear and eco-friendly styles are increasingly gaining prominence.

According to experts, this would lead to a good deal of short, skimpy dresses as well as body-fitting outfits that celebrate the female form. For the generously endowed and not-so-young, it would once again mean a return to free-flowing deconstructed silhouettes with a high degree of transparency.

 


Given these broad parameters, the first trend that has emerged is the use of light fabrics that are soft and elastic. As a textile designer puts it, the emphasis is not on going for a "dare-bare look", but on making a woman feel like a woman.

So jersey becomes the most favoured fabric of the season. It feels like crepe and with its ribs and ripples, it lends itself wonderfully to tailored dresses, summery shirts and sexy blouses. Moreover, jersey allows for beautiful tone-on-tone embroidery, besides other embellishments.

Jersey styles are ideal for casual wear — dresses with clean cuts and skirts that end just above the knee. Trousers are fitted straight without waist pleats or else, take the shape of parallels. Light jackets and long frocks could be the surprise entrants in the summer wardrobe this year.

For the career woman — business executives and professionals — the look is classic chic with tailored shirts, blouses and jackets. In what could be interpreted as a throwback to the seventies, slim trousers and fitted skirts complete the look.

Here, stretch fabrics gain prominence, especially for those having to contend with frequent travel at a short notice. Micro fibres in cotton, linen and silk blends provide the best fashion solutions for such women. The palette ranges from warm mud and moss to the popular off-white and shades of blue.

As for accessories — the integral part of ‘power dressing’ for women these days — the big thing this summer is high-heeled shoes with baguette-shaped handbags and gold jewellery. Court shoes or slingback shoes are other options, but not for senior executives and formal dos.

The third decisive trend is a resurgence of Indian ethnic wear with a profusion of embroidery. Short cholis can be teamed up with drawstring pants and ankle-length skirts with dupattas.

Colours are, however, subdued, moving from earth tones to pastels. Madras checks and violet prints are the new additions this season. And the fabrics are usually semi-transparent or else in stretch, seersucker and iridescent. The latest, of course, are waxed surfaces that lend a wet, sexy look.

Many designers are making the most of these new fabric options with experiments in east-west fusion wear. Here, the focus shifts to trousers which might appear as drainpipes, but are hipster in cut and could flare just below the knee into bell-bottoms.

Tops, blouses, jackets and other garments are cut to complement the trousers. In multi-coloured hues, stripes, checks and polka dots and with cowboy boots, embroidered belts and sling bags to match, the blending of Indian and western design elements is both vibrant and dynamic.

Finally, for those with a fixation for glamour and glitz, the trend is towards slinky skin-tight garments — trousers, tops and dresses. Form-fitting trousers, short skirts and mini skirts dominate the scene with equally bold, body-clinging tops.

The fabric here is silky, shiny and glitzy with lots of floral prints. Significantly, textures could vary between organza and tulle, but with a new double-face finish that is soft and foamy on the inside and smooth and shiny on the outside.

With colours ranging from rose and mauve to yellow and pink, the look is both summery and feminine. Add to this a dash of glitter and the outfit is right for a late-evening party out in the open. Whoever said sequins are gemstones meant for the winter? (MF)