Get pearl wise

FROM a time when they were seen as cheap alternatives to diamonds, pearls have come to be regarded as the ultimate fashion accessory. For their sheen and lustre, they can rival any other gemstone. And for their price, genuine pearls could be just as expensive, if not more.

Discovered more than 10,000 years ago, the pearl was, for a long time, believed to be endowed with magical powers. The maharajas and nawabs of yore adorned themselves with pearl necklaces not only to ward off evil, but also to invoke the blessings of the gods.

Today, pearls are worn as an expression of elegance and grace. From the high priestesses of fashion like Jackie O and Marilyn Monroe down to our Maharani Gayatri Devi and Bollywood starlet Aishwarya Rai, pearls are fast climbing up the popularity charts.

"People used to opt for pearls when they had lower budgets," observes jewellery designer Poonam Soni. "That was because Indians were not very educated about pearls and considered gold and diamonds as safer options. Consequently, a lot of faux pearls flooded the market."

With fashion awareness spreading fast, pearls are turning out to be the perfect fashion accessory for most occasions — and people are prepared to pay the price for that. "As a rule, the more the lustre of the pearl, the higher its price ought to be," Soni points out.

And then, it is not just as necklaces, chokers, ear tops, pendants or finger rings that pearls are being sought. Designers like Abu-Sandeep and Tarun Tahiliani are making use of faux pearls to embellish their collections.

For many, such dresses provide a muted substitute to glitter and glitz at a time when "understated elegance" has become the buzzword. Moreover, it is not as though everybody is comfortable wearing pearls. You need the right complexion and personality to be able to carry pearls.

As former model and writer Shoba De puts it: "I associate pearls with someone who has a porcelain personality like Gayatri Devi. I will not wear them, unless it is the Basra pearls in a kundan set, Maybe, it’s because I prefer antique silver and kundan sets."

Make-up artist Mickey Contractor believes that pearls should be reserved for formal and semi-formal occasions. "Cream pearls compliment the Indian skin best. They have a touch of yellow, which is most akin to the Indian complexion. It does not matter whether you are fair or dark."

South Sea pearls are also gaining in popularity with the glamour set and can be even more expensive than diamonds. These are usually large and carry a greyish tinge that sets them apart from normal white, yellow or pink pearls. At the same time, they are not as flashy as diamonds.

"The type of pearls you use should be dictated by your mood," advises Soni. "Generally, pearls look good when you are in a mellow state of mind and are wearing lighter colours. It’s the same yardstick that guides your choice of jewellery."

Fellow designer Farzana Khan, however, differs: "You can find a pearl for every occasion and mood. From the tiny Italian pearls used in chokers to the huge South Sea pearls, you have a wide range of colours to choose from — white, cream, pink, grey..."

Of late, the trend is towards wearing the so-called "magical" strings of pearls, which are supposed to bring luck. Like fancy talismans and gemstone accessories, these necklaces have become part of what designers describe as "spiritual jewellery".

Says former ramp queen Mehr Jessia: "I am not a jewellery person, but I love pearls. I often find myself admiring other people’s pearl collections. My special favourite is my mother’s set of five strands of pearls with an-uncut diamond in the middle. It has a typically Indian look."

She attributes the fondness of Indians towards pearls to their rising popularity in the West. "Flick through any international magazine and you will notice all film stars and celebrities in show business sporting pearls. It is definitely the most classic item a woman can wear."

While Mehr feels that pearls look best when worn with a Parsi gara (the traditional costume), other like Soni and Khan prefer to wear them with sarees, especially of black and solid tones. "A string of pearls certainly looks more elegant than a gold necklace," the latter adds. (MF)