Pink & purple to rule this season
By Saloni Kaul

SO Goldie Hawn wrapped herself in a pink saree for Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones wedding. Dame Judi Dench wore an Abu-Jani outfit at the last Oscars. Madonna continues to flaunt her mehndi designs. And all over Europe, bindi is hot!

Do these make for a defining image of Indian fashion abroad?

Designers like Ritu Kumar and J.J. Vallaya who have been holding exhibitions regularly in the West would not agree. Hemant Trivedi would also hope that eventually embroidery should eventually sell from India. Most others would opt for the ‘middle path’ between minimalism and a dressy look.

What is, however, lost in all this speculation is the fitted silhouette that appeals most to present-day youth. Sportswear and T-shirts worn by the likes of Salman Khan and Hritik Roshan would ultimately determine fashion trends during this decade.

"There is no doubt India is evolving and in the next 10 years we will see more of body-fitting outfits that are exciting and universal," opines Delhi-based designer Jatin Kochar. "These are creations that are in tune with everyone all over the world."

Kochar predicts that by the next season, there will be a lot of new colours, which shall make Indian stretch fabrics a rage in the international marketplace. But then, skin-tight clothes in shiny metallics are definitely out.

"I see a revival of Indianness in fashion," observes Ahmedabad-based designer Madhavi Desai. "Even with western cuts and silhouettes, there is a complete return to our roots. What matters is the classic look — uncluttered, minimal and elegant."

In other words, clean and functional clothes with an accent on comfort would ensure India’s presence on the ramps of Milan and Paris. Delhi-based Ashima-Leena interpret this as a shift from ensemble designing and coordinates to separates: "For instance, short skirts are hot for the younger generation. And it will be bright colours all the way. Not many would want to wear earthy or dull colours any more."

On their part, these designers are currently concentrating on in-house printing because in spring, the focus will shift to lighter garments. "In our western section, we will be having mainly short styles — halter tops, slim pants, churidar-kurtas and semi-Patialvi salwars of short lengths."

Clearly, fabric options thrown open by new technology have influenced these styles. Not only are cottons available in a variety of weaves from Mangalgiri to Vishnupur and Kerala — but there are equally good alternatives: jute and yarn extracted from pineapple husk and banana peel!

But more than these developments in technology, designers are also having to reckon with a change in attitude — a ‘who cares’ disposition, as Mumbai-based Preeti Chandra puts it, that makes people dress up for themselves and not to please others.

I think the ‘me-myself’ attitude will direct fashion trends in the future," she explains. "People want to dress for comfort, to please themselves and to show off, whether it is with body suits, hip-hugging outfits, hot pants or simple, deconstructed tunics. We are back to basics."

Agrees Desai: "It is depressing to see all girls dressed in similar black trousers and tight jeans. It is time that block-printed capris and embroidered pants make an entry. If we concentrate on the fit and finish, there is no reason why these should not be trend-setters internationally."

Correspondingly, there will also be a rise in popularity of suits with accessories embedded into the fabrics itself as well as accessories like neck embellishments, bracelets, anklets and hip belts. Outfits may sport multiple pockets and belts with small, stiffbags to carry stuff.

Taking a cue from last year’s styles, fashion consultant Yatan Ahluwalia believes that along with simple, low-priced clothing, the focus will shift to accessorising and embellishments, including make-up and hair styling.

"It’s a glossy look," he elaborates. "This must not be confused with glittery sequins, but more like the gloss of patent leather. It would extend to shoes, accessories, make-up and hair. We are going back to wearing trendy, practical clothes which look great on an individual."

As for colours, he feels greys and beiges will be replaced by vibrant hues like Indian pink and purple. Mumbai-based Shaina N.C. expects "more of vibrant shades on translucent fabrics" whereas Ashima-Leena are pitching for powder blue, light lemon and burnt reds.

Adds Desai: "People will wear what they look and feel good in. It doesn’t make sense to wear a dress which will draw so much attention that eventually the wearer drowns in it. After all, you want people to notice you also, not just your dress!"

(MF)