Short kurtas make a comeback
By Anjana Sarin

THERE is a new, but popular saying in Indian fashion circles: "Style always remains the same, it’s the colour and cut that changes with every season!" Lack of originality, endless repetitions of designs and the absence of any sustainable trend for years can all be attributed to this single sentence.

But then, if style is to mean elegance, attitude, carriage and presentation, the new year is already offering some definite pointers. For once, the much-flogged salwar kameezes and churidar kurtas are being replaced by some "real" hi-fashion wear.

Bohemian chic defines the spirit of the times as short, colourful dresses and figure-hugging gowns are in for teenagers, while those in their twenties, sober up to straight classic cuts, long shirts, jackets and pants.

"Lengths and cuts have changed this season," confirms Raja Sethi of the Body Basics design studio in Mumbai. "Everybody seems to be going in for party wear with short skirts, snakeskin tops, PVC pants and fitted gowns. Leather shirts and jackets are popular with men."

While these could well be attributed to a hangover from the extended ‘turn-of-the century’ festivities, senior designers have discerned strong indications for a revival of Indo-western fashion, especially in casuals and semi-casuals, as the year goes by.

"We are sure to witness a resurgence of short kurtas worn with loose trousers, even among older women and those with not-so-perfect bodies," informs Monica Gujaral, a design consultant. "Georgettes, crepe and a bit of net will be the most favoured fabrics of 2001."

She adds that shimmer, glitter and funky bright colours would also gain popularity. "But everything ultimately comes down to the occasion and individual tastes," Gujaral points out. "Some prefer a few touches of embroidery, while others like to opt for heavy work."

Oscar Almeida, a film choreographer-turned-designer, points out that

halters, interesting tubes, metal tops, turtle necks and stringy straps would dominate the fashion scene during the year. The so-called happening colours would be

black, turquoise blue, orange and mango shades, fuschia and red.

"The biggest surprise is the popularity of pink," says Almeida. "Although it is too early to confirm if this would have a lasting impact on design trends, we are seeing a good deal of beadwork and sequins done on pink fabric base."

Another surprise of the year is the use of fur, which is increasingly influencing Indian sartorial tastes. At present it is showing up on collars and stoles, but going by the popularity of animal hair coats and jackets in high-altitude cities of northern India, real fur could well determine mainstream styles in holiday wear.

Otherwise, Indians are generally sticking to brocades, organza, silk, georgettes and a lot of stretch material. "Sequined shoes and bags are going to be popular too," predicts Rocky S., who has been experimenting with sequined and beaded scarves for a while.

Rocky has also designed multi-coloured children’s prints for women’s wear and printed voile for men’s shirts. He belongs to a select group of designers who are working with reputed textile mills like Morarji Gokuldas to create exclusive and unconventional fabric for hi-fashion wear.

Also in the group are designers like Krishna Mehta who use voile blends for ethnic wear, Hemant Trevedi who dreams up fusion wear (particularly for the cocktail circuit) from sarees and scarves and Jay Ramrakhiani who creates nightwear from furnishing fabrics.

The results have been very encouraging. As P.K. Gothi of Morarji Mills puts it: "By catering to the needs of high fashion designers in our country, we have ensured that fashion trickles down to the masses. At the same time, we get a feel of the high fashion-end of the market."

Similar experiments are on in the revival of traditional saree weaves like paithani, aashavali, ikat, patola, Banarasi and tissue brocade. Indications are that by mid-2001, such fabric varieties would enter the fashion mainstream and, possibly, usher in a revival of Indian ethnic wear.

Other significant indicators are three-quarter length dresses with beaded anklets as accessories. Bias and fishtail cuts are finding prominence in gowns and long tunics. Skirts are having symmetrical cuts. And jackets are either flowing or fitted.

(MF)