Sunday, January 14, 2001		Article

BHOPAL has always intrigued me. To think that a succession of Begums were able to rule a state from behind their purdahs! The history of Bhopal is unique among states in India, and probably in the world with a succession of three female monarch who, despite being in purdah, were able to bring about prosperity to their state. They were able to initiate modern developments in the city, introduce an efficient postal system, set up railways and modern waterworks. Being pragmatic rulers, the Begums negotiated and maintained good relations with the British, who in turn treated them with respect. Bhopal remained for many years, a calm and peaceful place, till it hit world headlines after the unfortunate gas tragedy.

In December 1999, I was lucky to be in Bhopal. On the last evening of the year, I found that I was staying in a perfect place, the Noor-us-Subah Palace, built on a hillock by the lake. While having a cup of tea on the terrace of the Qmar Taj Suite, I was able to watch the glorious sight of the sun setting over the lake. As the sky turned orange, the reflections in the waters of the lake took on the same hue.... fading into an orange-grey, and then into darkness.

The Noor-us-Subah, meaning the ‘light of dawn’ was earlier owned by the ruling family of the state of Bhopal, and a portrait of the Begum, who was on the throne when it was built, can be seen at the entrance. Also to be seen is a royal palanquin in which she moved around the city. While opposite this are the state’s royal standards, that preceded the royal palanquin at state functions. The Begum, the maternal grandmother of Nawab ‘Tiger’ Pataudi, was a descendent of Afghan chief Dost Mohammed Khan. In charge of Bhopal during Aurangzeb’s reign, after the Mughal monarch’s death in 1707, he took over the state. The old city was built by him, and was ruled ever since by his descendants, right up to India’s Independence in 1947.

However, the beginnings of this city date back many more years, and Bhopal is said to have been founded in the 11th century by Raja Bhoja, who is also credited with building the lakes. Thereafter, the city was devastated by succeeding invaders and finally rebuilt in the 18th century by Dost Mohammad. Named after its founder, Bhopal was earlier known as Bhojpur, and Raja Bhoja’s legacy is the huge Bhojeshwar Temple, some distance from the city, which he left incomplete.

Bhopal is where old and new co-exist in perfect harmony. However, it is apparent that the upkeep of old monuments and buildings has not been high on anyone’s list of priorities, and some really beautiful structures are now crumbling. But on the other hand, Bhopal spread over seven hills with two lovely lakes, now has a splendid new beach road, circling the lakes — a major attraction of this lovely city.

The Taj-ul-Masjid, one of Bhopal’s more recent monuments was begun by Shah Jahan Begum, who ruled from 1868 to 1901, but was completed by her successor in the 1970s. Other important mosques include the Jama Masjid built in 1837 and the Moti Masjid in 1860. The chowk area of the old city is full of stately old homes with distinctive architecture, havelis in narrow lanes, large mosques and shops stocked with the craft of the region — beadwork, embroidered and sequined handbags and silver jewellery.

Not included on a tourist’s itinerary is Bhopal’s Taj Mahal — a splendid complex of palaces with a garden courtyard and covered walkways. Now in total ruin with the ceiling near the entrance having collapsed, one has to clamber over stones to go inside. With the potential of becoming a major tourist attraction, one wonders why it should have been allowed to degenerate into this state. Earlier known as the Raj Mahal, it was renamed ‘Taj Mahal’ , on a suggestion by the Viceroy of India to the ruling monarch Shah Jahan Begum prior to the visit of the Prince of Wales. The name was probably well-deserved, as vestiges of its former glory are clearly discernible.

A unique art centre is the Bharat Bhawan, designed by eminent Indian architect, Charles Correa. Within these sprawling premises, art activities of all varieties get a boost, with artists and theatre personalities constantly visiting the venue. It has a fine collection of contemporary Indian art, where major works by most of India’s leading artists find representation. For art lovers, a visit is really worthwhile, as many of the paintings and sculptures have seldom been seen outside. The museum of folk art is also a repository of the rich folk art traditions of Madhya Pradesh, however it is the repertory theatre of Bharat Bhawan that is really famous, and there are shows every evening at the in-house auditorium.

Bhopal is good base for many interesting excursions. The main palace of Dost Mohammad Khan at Islamnagar, is just 11 km away. The palace is well worth a visit, for its inspired combination of Islamic and Hindu architectural features. Within the palace complex, the Chaman Mahal and the two-storeyed Rani Mahal deserve special mention.

Bhimbetka, located 45 km south of Bhopal, has approximately 500 caves, discovered fairly recently, where the most amazing rock paintings may be seen. Some of these date as far back as 12,000 years, and some seem to have been painted over, indicating that these caves were used by succeeding generations. The colours of the paintings are remarkably well preserved with depictions of wild buffalos, rhinos, bears and tigers. Human figures engaged in hunting, dancing, drinking and religious activities also feature in the paintings.

On the road to Bhimbetka, a short diversion takes you to Bhojpur. Here, located on a rocky mound, is Raja Bhoj’s massive Bhojeshwar Temple, designed in massive proportions with steep stairs. The temple is said to never have been completed, and an ancient scaffolding, used for lifting the stones may still be seen, side by side with the new scaffolding, put up in an effort to restore and complete the temple. But incomplete as it is, it still attracts a large number of pilgrims, who come to pray at the Shivling installed within.

Forty-six km northeast of Bhopal lies Sanchi, and in fact trains from Delhi stop at Sanchi station before going on to Bhopal. Sanchi is known as one of India’s most important Buddhist sites. This is the site of the Great Stupa, considered to be India’s oldest stone structure — a majestic dome built over Buddhist relics, surrounded by an intricately-carved railing, with four ornate gateways. Besides the main stupa, there are a number of prayer halls that have a distinct Greco-Roman influences. There are also a number of monasteries, smaller votive stupas and innumerable other ruins, including foundations and pillars of residences or temples, as well as a water tank, and a large begging bowl carved out of a single rock.

From Sanchi a short drive takes one to Udaigiri, a rocky hillock, where a number of caves have been carved out. Here there are some fine images of Vishnu, Durga, Ganesha, and an unusual Shivling with Shiva’s image carved on it. During the Mauryan rule, Vidisha was an important town, and Emperor Ashoka’s wife is said to have hailed from Vidisha. Lying fairly close to Sanchi, and very close to Udaigiri, it may have been the location of the Mauryan Court.

Between Vidisha and Udaigiri, is an interesting inscribed pillar, commonly referred to by the locals as ‘Khamb Baba’. It was erected as far back as 140BC, by Heliodoros, a Greek Ambassador to the Mauryan court, who hailed from Taxila. The pillar, erected to celebrate the conversion of Heliodoros to Hinduism, is dedicated to Vishnu, and is worshipped by the fishermen in the region.

December and January are the best months to visit Bhopal. The weather can be cold at night but the days are warm and sunny — not too warm for sight-seeing, however, if one sets out slightly early. There is much to see in and around Bhopal and one needs to spend at least three days to see it all. Remember to make time for a play by the Repertory Theatre Group at the Bhopal Art Centre, and spend time in the excellent art gallery, full of works by India’s best-known artists, carefully collected by the art selection committee at the Art Centre. For art lovers this is a must, as most of these works are unique in quality and have seldom been seen in print.