Striking gold, in style!
By Aditi Tandon

The yellow metal is being preferred right now. The latest designs in gold are trendy, offbeat and striking. The emphasis is on making the product light, not only on the wearer but on his pocket too. The heavy and elaborate designs remain restricted to the range for brides.

The trends in gold jewellery were showcased at a glittering award-giving function-cum-fashion show held in the city on the occasion of Swarnanjali 2000 recently. The World Gold Council authorities, in collaboration with Anglo Gold, displayed all fads currently reigning in the gold designing market in North India. Each of the 10 designs which won awards in three categories — casual wear, men’s accessories and bridal wear— reflected the altered patterns in designing of gold. Barring the bridal wear section where heavy ornamentation is still the order of the day, designs in the other two categories portrayed how fashion in gold jewellery is moving away from its dictatorial mode and allowing fresh streaks of individual choices to make their mark.

Also, the very definition of gold jewellery is in for a change, with ornaments being made from both filigree and dyes to ensure that they are light. High gloss or matte finish is being increasingly used to add refinement to the product.

Most designs which won awards came from NIFT graduates who focused on offbeat styles. The designs matched international trends in terms of affordability and creativity. Some of the novel designs which won under different categories were:

Casual wear—

*NIFT graduate Deepa Verma’s pendant-cum-brooch, with a rotating disc of figures, depicted universal love. The pendant, marked with filigree work, had high gloss and matte finish.

*NIFT student Pratibha Chabria’s curved and rectangular bangle was attractively finished with frost and high polish.

*The necktie by NIFT graduate Ranjita Rajora was striking. Its ornate bow set in a simple style comprised flexible links to go round the neck.

*A necklace titled Orchids by Rosilyn Paul, also a NIFT student, came as an artistic expression of the ever-changing blooms. It comprised three rows of chains merged with buds to symbolise femininity.

*Sandhya Sinha’s Delicate Harmony (necklace) seemed to have been inspired by the whiplash and tendrils of the Art Nouveau Movement.

*Gold Virtuosity-award winner Sangeeta Diwan’s Peacock Splendour had a unique style which could be expanded to the desirable length. It had a sand blasting and rhosium polish finish.

Men’s accessories: The focus here was on designing practical pieces — light in weight and easy to wear. Some outstanding designs reflecting trends in the field of men’s accessories were highlighted during the show:

* In his collip, Harpreet Padam took a fresh look at the accessory market. The collip blends with any shirt collar.

* Lakshmi Mohan’s cuff links were inspired by thumb prints to add an individual touch to the design.

* Leena Jauli, the winner of last year’s Swarnanjali, designed a sarpech which can also be worn as a brooch. Combined with matte and gloss, the piece personifies power, status and masculinity.

* Pratibha Chabria’s suryachakra marks a new beginning for the groom. Inspired by the rising sun, it can be worn on the turban and then turned into a pendant for his bride.

*The pendant by Rajesh Khajuria is shaped like the swastika. Set in plain gloss, it also has a ganpati which adds a special meaning to it.

*NIFT Graduate Tejmohan offers a tribute to all fathers with his ring called the Pillar of Strength. The design reflects the unconditional love of fathers.

In the bridal wear section, the ‘in’ designs were real heavy, but sensibly conceptualised. The most outstanding one was the 599-gm necklace (called Bouquet of Blessings) by Deepa Verma. The design traces its roots to the blessings showered on a couple. Symbolic of good fortune, it was perfectly detailed, with cutting on leaves, frosting on roses, high gloss and matte finish.

Free Falling, another necklace weighing 270 gm, by Anjali Shah, was designed from tribal jewellery made of hollow pipes. The falling chains signify the passage of time. Deeksha Mishra adds the fine granulation touch of Turkmenistan to her necklace and earrings, inspired from Persian motifs. Another blend of ethnic and modern titled Rhythm came from Ranjita Rajora, who got her idea from kalira, worn with the bride’s chuda. The design extends as an arm accessory and can also be detached into bangles.

Rosilyn Paul’s Shalimaar is a head ornament, inspired from flowers of Dal Lake. The design is reminiscent of the floating flowers and buds. Its beauty is enhanced by textured flowers and rava work.

Sangeeta Diwan presented a fusion piece, inspired by African jewellery. Crafted in three parts, where each can be worn separately, the necklace has a sand-blasting and high-gloss finish.

Another very intricate work came from Vandana Sengupta whose design titled Modest Venus took inspiration from the painting Birth of Venus.

The beauty of 301-gm necklace was enhanced by rava work.