Cut above the rest
By Anjana Sarin

YOU may be born with a pretty face, but your haircut is what can enhance or mar that pretty look. Nothing can be more disastrous than having a haircut that does not suit the shape and size of your face. A haircut is supposed to enhance, rather than mar your looks.

A hair stylist first assesses your face type before figuring out ways to highlight its strong features and suppress certain trouble areas and only then, does he or she apply scissors on comb. In weighing the various options for the most perfect cut, the stylist could also be assisted by digital imaging on the computer.

What are these options?

As any stylist would tell you, round faces pose the most complex problems, simply because of the large number of related factors that have a bearing on the cut: height, constitution, skin tone, personality, occupation and the kind of clothes you habitually wear.

Says Leena Pratihar of Club Nine, Bombay: "The round face is the most complicated of all cuts as it is very difficult to camouflage. You cannot make it look long or oval to match your body type. At best you can create a squarish look.... But that does not suit everybody."

For a round face, you can get a blunt with horizontal bangs to add height to your countenance. In case you want a fringe, it should always be horizontal rather than vertical. The hair should be left in such a way that it hugs the sides of your face."

"All this makes the face look longer and less round," explains Deepa Shanbagh of Topsy Turvy. "Some of the other solutions to round faces are leaving the hair long (especially, if you are into wearing sarees and Salwar kameezes), or else, cutting it in layers."

Pratihar suggests a blunt for a small face with high cheekbones and a fringe for one with a large forehead. A broad face merits hair hanging loose (below the shoulders) in a tapering fashion. A layered look would further do the trick in making the face appear narrower.

Then there is the longish face that should best have a short blunt or a wedge cut. Alternatively, try out a razor cut by letting the hair remain long at the back and getting it cut in a layered fashion from the sides. But if the hair is limp and very fine, avoid the layers. Instead, go for a U-shaped cut.

Advises Priya Sinha of Crossover: "A short haircut looks terrific on most people above 40, whereas on younger women, steps look more captivating. The wedge cut is a good style for the summer, regardless of the age or face type."

The oval face is, of course, the ideal for any stylist. As Javed Habib of Delhi’s Habibs puts it: "An oval face is the best possible shape. Our main aim is to make every face look like that. For people who have a round face, we cut lots of hair from the sides. Their face looks longer that way."

Pratihar agrees: "An oval face is the ideal shape. You can do just about anything with it. Long hair, braids, bangs... everything looks great with this face cut. You need not even bother about height or constitution with an oval face."

For a square face again, the options are narrowed down as not all styles suit it. "One way out is to hide the angular jaw," suggests Sinha. "So take your hair and pin it up on the side and leave the other side hanging down. This gives an asymmetrical look which hides the squareness of the face."

Another way out is to cut and comb the hair in such a manner that it should fall more on one side than on the other. If you have a receding hairline or need to cover your forehead, let a few wisps of hair fall over rather than keep a fringe for a square face.

"The fringe is best for a long face," advises Shanbagh. "A broad face with a pointed chin can also support a fringe. But then, the fringe should start somewhere in the centre of your head and fall deeper than most other fringes."

If you want a long face to look roundish, cut the hair in layers so that it shapes your face and draws attention away from it. Back-comb your hair in such a way that it adds body to the sides. Try to have the hair fall to one side, rather than on the back.

— (MF)