There are many reasons for the slow process of urbanisation in the region as compared to western parts of Punjab, one is administrative indifference and apathy, but the most important is water. Records indicate a steady increase in the area brought under the plough by the toiling peasantry but the net area under irrigation remained between 10 and 17 per cent throughout the century. For example, as compared to Karnal’s 6596 masonry wells in 1910, Hisar had only 126 and Rohtak 1455. In 1887, the total area irrigated by canals in the whole of Punjab was about 23.41 lakh acres. Of this, the five districts of Ambala Division that came to from Haryana accounted for less 4 per cent.

That records fail to provide any focus on trade and commerce in the Haryana region is hardly surprising. In 1881, the percentage of people involved in commerce or transport in the five districts is recorded to be less than 2 per cent. The percentage of people holding government jobs was between 1.7 per cent and 2.3 per cent.

Good accounts of the Punjab in particular and the Haryana region in general are available in works of William Moorcraf and George Trebeck (1837); David Ross (1883); George Forster (1808); HML Lawerence (1883); Rev. R. Clark (1883); C.J. French (1872); Henry Yule (Ed. Amy Yule(1902). The Department of Languages, Punjab, made an important contribution in 1970 by reproducing some of these works. To get an authentic picture, such write-ups, however, must be compared with other sources, particularly the gazettes.

One hundred and twentyfive years ago, Ambala Cantonment was by far the most important and beautiful city of the region. Developed from scratch in 1843, it was known as a garden city. Sadar Bazar was a thriving centre for trade. A small but influential section of its population of 47,000 was Bengali. The Bengalis worked not only as clerical staff and translators but organised a retail business to meet the requirements of the British officers. The Masonic Hall, the Sirhind Club and the St. Paul’s Cathedral were the major landmarks. So minutely had the authorities planned the cantonment that they had even provided for a red light area. In sharp contrast, Ambala City surrounded by a large wall and with a population of 26,000, saw little development due to shortage of water.

Pinjore and Kalka were frequently referred to in the 19th century accounts mainly because they fell on the Ambala-Shimla route. At Kalka, bullock and horse carts were changed for hill tongas. The road from Ambala to Kalka was metalled and shaded by banyan trees. Horses of the dak garis were changed every five miles. The Ghaggar sometimes delayed the journey. Those who travelled by foot, on horses or in dolis usually went to Shimla by the old route that touched Kasauli and Subathu. Tongas went on the present route. The gardens at Pinjore were well maintained and the adjoining sarais were popular night halts used by those going to or coming from Shimla.

Accounts of Thanesar, particularly its solar eclipse mela, are fascinating. Up to five lakh people regularly visited Kurukshetra a sleepy town of about 6000 people. Even though the population consisted chiefly of Brahmins, a traveller describes the mausoleum of Shaikh Chillie adjoining the old fort and city: "The most graceful of tombs next to the Taj, built of pure marble". Some of the marble is reported to have been looted and taken to Kaithal. The sad state in which the monument is today is the result of a century of neglect and arson.

Another account describes the once prosperous Thanesar: "There are hundreds of shops mostly empty, the city is infested with monkeys. The yearly flooding of the country renders it unhealthy.... The population is decreasing." Some travellers have noted how the waters of the Saraswati near Thanesar were flooded with ashes of the dead. Sometime in 1830, the Brahmins of Thanesar had asked the Governor-General to ban the catching of fish, slaughtering of horned cattle and cutting of trees as the whole Thanesar region was a tirath. The Governor-General signed an order in 1832, which was executed by H. Lawerence only on February 25, 1843: "In consideration of the great sanctity in which Thanesar is held by the Hindus, His Lordship has been pleased to direct that travellers be enjoined to regard the wishes of the Brahmins in the above respect."

With the coming into operation of the Delhi-Saharanpur-Ambala railway line, towns in the Haryana region which had enjoyed significance and prosperity due to the Grand Trunk Road began to lose their importance included Sonepat, Panipat, Karnal, Pipli.

Karnal was in the 1870s a walled city with a population of about 23,000. A special mention is made by travellers of the dense jungles and extensive wildlife in the immediate surroundings of Karnal. The town had a reputation of unhealthy climatic conditions mainly because of the faulty alignment of the western Yamuna Canal.

By the turn of the century, Panipat lost its importance as a trade transit point between Delhi, Afghanistan and Persia. Most accounts refer to the number of sarais and the many tombs and mosques of Panipat which were "visible from a great distance." Ibrahim Lodhi’s tomb was renovated by the British in 1868 and is thus talked highly of in various accounts. Brass and silver work was the main commercial activity of the time.

The population of Sonepat was 13,000, including 7000 Muslims. Its bazar was clean and "well supplied". But what is really surprising is how some of the beautiful tombs that are referred to in travel accounts have disappeared. There is, for example, a detailed reference to a beautiful mausoleum built by a descendant of Sher Shah near Sonepat. Another tomb as shown by a traveller was converted into a rest house for government officials. Then there is the reference to a masjid belonging to Balban’s time. In it a beautiful black marble tomb of one Sayyid Yusaf is highly praised for its beauty.

In the 1870s, the city of Rohtak had a population of about 8100 Hindus and 6928 Muslims.It had practically no commercial production. Accounts of its surroundings are: "Strong able-bodied sturdy farmers, who keep fine oxens and splendid buffaloes and live in large well-organised village communities.

Hisar draws mention for its 44,000 acre government agriculture farm and its numerous places of Hindu and Muslim worship. Another point raised by those who passed Hisar was its extensive wildlife. There are references of lions in the immediate vicinity of the city. Throughout the 19th century, particularly in 1802, 1817, 1833, 1860, 1877, 1886, 1896 and 1899, it was struck by famine. As compared to Jagadhri in the north of the state, which had an annual rainfall of 900 mm in 1879, Hisar, Hansi and Bhiwani experienced only 163 mm of rainfall.

Moving southwards, Jhajjar draws reference for its pottery and the extensive ruins around it. Jhajjar had about 7000 Hindus and 4500 Muslims.

Gurgaon was, like Ambala, a well-planned ‘green’ city. Houses of British officials were built around a water tank and shaded by large trees. The sulphur springs of Sohna were a major attraction. People with rheumatic problems, skin and flood diseases thronged the place. The baths were divided on caste and community lines, with a special enclosure for Europeans.

The population of Sohna consisted of 4600 Hindus and 2800 Muslims. Rewari, unlike Gurgaon, was an important centre for trade and commerce. With a population of 14000 Hindus and 9000 Muslims, it dealt in brass, zinc and metal products. Its hukahs were popular all across the state. It was also a major trade centre for sugar and grain.