Looks that last
By Sumona Roy

SOME things never change in fashion. The way you tie your saree, for instance, is just the same way your grandmother did when she was young. The pre-stitched saree and its many variations may come and go, but the magic of the six-yard drape is eternal.

Designers have identified several such items of clothing whose appeal has outlasted all trends— the salwar-kameez, blue jeans, the ghagra-choli ensemble, dhoti-kurtas, business suits. ...These have come to constitute the staple of the Indian fashion industry.

What changes, however, is the fabric, cuts, the fall, embellishments and accessories. But the salwar-kameez in any other name, remains a salwar-kameez. The decisive factor here is the convenience of keeping pace with time without compromising on the pre-requisites of comfort and style.

"Clothes that reflect simplicity and tradition, remain eternal classics," observes Nimisha Dutt, a well-known fashion writer. "Body-hugging tops with denim shorts and ankle-high boots might appear hep today, but they wouldn’t last even a year. They are so uncomfortable!"

Indeed the winds of change, which have blown in from the West since the sixties, have touched only the affluent few. Unlike the masses, they were the ones who could afford to flirt with passing fads. At best, they caused a ripple effect, but never a fashion wave.

So when Dior’s ‘new look’ crept in during the seventies, only the social elite were affected. Saree-choli ensembles turned sophisticated with chiffons, silks and brocades moving into the forefront. Textile production technology improved accordingly with time.

For the masses though, the difference it made was that ‘drip dry’ synthetics made life easy. Home, hearth and a job made the Indian woman search for clothes that complemented her lifestyle, were durable, easy to maintain and, above all, comfortable.

So if the Pathani suits, tunics and salwars from the Mughal courts were back in fashion by the eighties, the reasons were not far to seek. In fact, the salwar-kameez had already emerged as a viable alternative to the ready-to-wear garments western countries were foisting on India.

From the carefully designed fabrics for salwar-kameezes to the revival of age-old weaving techniques for sarees, lehngas and cholis, the Indian woman could stick to her roots and stay her stylish best.

The kameez, however, found a creative interpretation in the Indian version of a mini — celebrated all the while in the world of glamour and films. Kurta lengths rose and fell to look varyingly as blouses and shirts — even kameezes. Likewise, the choli assumed new shapes depending on what it was teamed with.

As for skirts, the western trend of rising hemlines never really made an impact in the Indian fashion scene. This has obviously a lot to do with the constitution of Indian women, who generally remain shy about exposing their short legs. The long ankle-length skirt or lehnga has remained their best bet.

"But the most abiding fashion statement has come from the saree," says Ritu Puri, a Delhi-based designer. "Even when fashion was not a household concept, women found ways to look stylish by trying out different ways of draping the saree. Today, we have 100 distinctive ways of draping it".

Another reason for the popularity of the saree is that it is the only common garment that is worn by women across the length and breadth of the country. The style of draping it changes from one region to another and between different communities. Designers have only developed upon these traditions.

Observes Dutt: "While women have taken the ethnic route to project a timeless appeal in their clothing, men have surprisingly stuck to western wear. The most fashionable and lasting look for men remains a pair of trousers and a simple shirt!"

Indeed, sherwanis, angarkhas and Aligarhi kurtas are reserved for ceremonial occasions like social factions, religious festivals and marriages. The only liberty men take is with the traditional Nehru coat, which can be worn formally to a board meeting or casually over a pair of jeans.

The dhoti-kurta is another odd combination that is regarded as chic, but could never catch on. Of late, some designers like Puri are experimenting with dhoti-kurta ensemble on women, but with all the accompanying colour and dazzle, it hasn’t worked.

Like much of haute couture, dhotis look good on the ramp, but not as practical wear. (MF)