Sunday, July 23, 2000		Heritage

The roar of the Tiger of Mysore died down over 200 years ago with the arrival of the British in 1799, but most Bangaloreans harbour feelings of great pride in the exploits of this valiant son of the state. It is thus rather strange that despite this keen interest in Tipu Sultan, so few visit the fort and the Summer Palace, which are among the only architectural sites connected with the lives of Tipu Sultan and his father Haider Ali, writes Shona Adhikari

THE Bangalore Fort, was first built out of mud by Kempegowda, a trusted chieftain of the Vijayanagar Empire and formed the nucleus of his city in 1537. At that time there were eight gates along the walls. The fort passed through the hands of the Bijapur Sultans, then to the Mughals and finally to the Wadiyars of Mysore.

When Haider Ali ruled Mysore, having wrested power from the Wadiyars, he rebuilt the fort with stone and made it his stronghold. After the death of his father, Tipu Sultan spent his time between his fort at Srirangapatna, Nandi Hills and Bangalore.

The Bangalore Fort is built in an unusual oval shape, and only one of its doorways is in use now. This is the Delhi Gate, which has exquisite Persian carved friezes in the inner and outer walls. These friezes, which are in the shape of arches include designs that are so much a part of Karnataka. Here we can see ornate lotuses, the Mayura (or Peacock), the half elephant/half bird motifs and elephants with entwined trunks. The doors to the Delhi Gate are missing, but massive iron knobs — three on either side — indicate the enormous doors that must have been hinged on them in Tipu’s era. There is also a massive inner gate which still has the original doors with iron spikes, intact, on the upper half. The lower spikes upto the height of 8 feet, have obviously been knocked down by invaders. A plaque marks the spot where Lord Cornwalis and his men breached the fort.

Earlier within the fort area, and now fairly close to it, is the small palace used by Tipu Sultan in the summer months. Begun in 1781 by Haider Ali, it was completed 10 years later in 1791 by Tipu, and is reminiscent of his other more ornate palace at Srirangapatna, the Daria Daulat.

Tipu named the palace Rash-e-Jannat, or the abode of happiness and the envy of heaven. This inscription can still be seen carved on the wooden bannisters of the staircase. The palace is built on a low stone platform and is a two-storeyed building with audience chambers in the front and the back. Beautifully cusped arches in rosewood rise above fluted stone pillars. There are 160 pillars, some that reach all the way up to the ceiling of the upper storey in the style of the Diwan-i-aam of the Mughals, and others that support the Jharokas on the upper floor. Two flights of stairs from either side, lead up to the central hall, on the first floor.

It seems likely that a whole wing of the palace was either damaged due to age or destroyed, on the eastern side. This is said to have been the Zenana or harem and was adjacent to a temple.

To preserve the wood, the arches and the ceiling have been painted in dark brown enamel paint with a cream trim. This gives the palace a rather sombre look. Earlier the entire palace is said to have been elaborately painted as the Tipu’s other retreat, the Daria Daulat.

However all the paintwork has not been totally ruined, and some of the inner walls still have traces of the original frescoes. Delicate white flowers on a brick red background, cover whole walls like an exquisite carpet. This is bordered on all four sides with a raised frieze of trellised gold flowers and leaves, on a white base. The entire design is highlighted with a delicate tracery of black outlines.

It is said that there were earlier frescoes depicting scenes from Tipu’s colourful life on some inner walls. But there is no trace of them now.

The palace, which is looked after by the Archaeological Survey of India, is set in a well maintained garden planted originally by Tipu. A keen lover of nature, Haider Ali, created the famous Lal Bagh gardens at Bangalore, and Tipu Sultan added to the rare trees that are planted in it. At the palace also, there were originally fountains and flowering trees, many of which have now given way to lawns. Lush green lawns encircled by beds of seasonal flowers now form the frontage of Tipu’s Palace.

With Bangalore fast becoming a busy, bustling metropolis it is increasingly more important to remember these small areas of history. So, on your next visit to Bangalore, take an hour off and visit the Fort and Tipu’s Palace, which remind you of the brave ‘Tiger of Mysore’.