Saturday, July 8, 2000
F E A T U R E


An arduous, yet exhilarating experience

The traditional route to the Amarnath Cave is via Pahalgam, Chandanbari, Sheshnag and Panjtarni. It is a 32-km-long trek. An average healthy yatri needs nearly five days to cover the distance both ways. However, a shorter route via Baltal has been thrown open recently, says K.L. Noatay

THE pilgrimage to the holy Amarnath Cave is fast approaching. It will commence on July 16, the Asharth Purnima, and will conclude on Sharavan Purnima i.e. the Raksha Bandhan day on August 15. A visit to this holy shrine of Lord Shiva is considered auspicious by Indians, especially the Hindus. The yatra also offers the pilgrims a unique opportunity to feast their eyes on scenic valleys and glades of Jammu and Kashmir.

The scenic Sheshnag is one of the halts of pilgrimsDarshan of the holy Shivling, a 5-to-10-foot-high ice stalagmite, formed out of water dripping from the top of the cave and then freezing, is considered auspicious especially on Shravan Purnima, the full moon night.

Thousands of yatris participate in this annual event. During the early nineties, the flow of pilgrims had reduced considerably because of militancy in the valley. In 1996, militants gave an assurance that they would not harm the yatris. Hence, that year, a vast multitude of pilgrims gathered to visit the shrine. Unfortunately, a severe snow blizzard struck the area just two days before the auspicious day, leaving 260 persons dead and many seriously injured. The tragedy was attributed to bad weather and to the heavy turnout of pilgrims.

Since then the Jammu and Kashmir Government has started taking adequate precautions against the repetition of such a mishap.

  The Shivling inside the caveThe traditional route to the Amarnath Cave is via Pahalgam, Chandanbari, Sheshnag and Panjtarni. It is a 32-km-long trek. An average healthy yatri needs nearly five days to cover the distance both ways. However, a shorter route via Baltal has been thrown open recently. By this route the distance, on-foot, to the holy cave is only 10 km from the jeep head, which is nearly 5 km ahead of Baltal. Some stretches of this new route, otherwise a fairly good mule track, have a comparatively steeper gradient. Nevertheless, a healthy and energetic person can ascend the 10-km track within three to four hours, and descend in about the same time and thus accomplish the yatra to the holy cave and be back in just one day. However, this journey cannot be split into two days, for there is no arrangement for night halt along this track.

The Jammu and Kashmir Tourism Department makes arrangements for pre-paid porters, ponies, dandis (palanquins), tents et al for the convenience of the yatris. The requests for the reservation of these facilities are entertained by the department at Pahalgam and Baltal against cash advance. Last year, the rates for porters, ponies and dandis for the up and down journey via the traditional route were Rs 1100, Rs 2300 and Rs 7000, respectively. The charges via the Baltal (one-day trek) route were Rs 700, Rs 1100 and Rs 3500, respectively. The rates for stay in the tourism department’s tents is Rs 100 per head for a night.

Yatris cross the breath-taking Panjtarni valley to reach the caveThe state tourism department entertains applications from those interested in undertaking the yatra at important cities like New Delhi, Jammu, Srinagar etc. The state government also takes stringent steps to make the movement of the yatris as secure as possible. They enlist the help of the CRPF as well as the Army authorities. Facilities like medical cover, telegraph, telephone etc. can be availed at important halts like Pahalgam, Chandan- bari, Sheshnag, Panjtarni, the cave and Baltal. A large fleet of deluxe buses is also provided by the Jammu and Kashmir Transport Corporation.

The yatris coming from the plains may feel breathless while trekking in the high altitude area. It is, therefore, desirable that those yatris move up to the cave gradually. Anaemic persons or those suffering from high or low blood pressure must avoid the journey. Alternately, they should consult a good physician and carry medicines along with them.

For an average healthy person, the altitude of the Amarnath area is not hazardous. The summer months of July and August are fairly warm. The trekkers who pay heed to the precautions suggested by the tourism department may not face any serious problem, even during inclement weather. However, the yatra could be dangerous if one is ill-equipped or careless.

Entrance to the holy caveThe state government makes arrangements for providing a short-term insurance cover to the yatris at Pahalgam and Baltal.

The government has posted Tourism Officers at cities like New Delhi, Mumbai, Calcutta, Chennai, Ahmedabad in addition to Jammu and Srinagar. They are accessible by phone as well as fax for detailed guidance or reservation.

With the state and Central governments taking so much interest in the management of the Amarnath Yatra, lakhs of pilgrims both Indian as well as foreigners, are able to undertake the journey to the Pir Panjal range.