Shirt smart
By Sarosh Medhora

AS the mercury shoots up and business jackets are cast away, the shirt, with its simple and timeless appeal, offers a cool alternative. No longer is it part of menswear alone. Women have already appropriated this classic piece of clothing, opening up countless interpretations in fusion wear.

This summer, the shirt is being viewed as an item of clothing symbolic of society’s relaxed attitudes. Formal suits are considered unfashionable for a young, upwardly mobile generation at any workplace. The crisp, neatly-cut shirt projects a refined and understated chic look.

Observes a designer who has created a new line in men’s dress shirts: "The idea is to make the most of sensibilities that are Indian in spirit, and yet bear a contemporary and international look. The structure is the same, but the modifications could be endless."

Consequently, there is a range of linens, crease-free synthetics and classic Oxford cottons to choose from this time of the year. The colour theme for these formal shirts could vary from whites, pastels and naturals.

In semi-casuals, there is the "sport shirt" range in corduroys, denims, knits and mesh. And for an evening do, there is always the classy dress-shirt in Italian or Indian silk that is plain, striped or printed in vibrant colours.

For women, shirt styles vary from the girlishly feminine to the sassy and confident, depending upon detailing like pleats and buttons. These are usually in light fabrics like voile and chiffon (exceptions being Madras cottons and checks) and can be worn out or tucked in.

There are also those over-sized long shirts reaching down to the knees, which substitute for kurtas and kameezes. Worn with salwars, the shirts stand out for their bold colour schemes and intricate embroidery around the collars.

Women are also going in for the normal (so-called unisex) shirt, regardless of whether it is to be teamed with a denim-clad leg or a nylon-trousered one.

The white shirt is just as irresistible and cannot be under-estimated for its transformational power. It makes the wearer feel cool and elegant in any surrounding. It is at once earthy and ethereal, yet impish and innocent!

"The great white shirt does for a women what black velvet does for diamonds," says well-known model and veejay Malaika Arora. "The woman looks her best in it. I use the white shirt as a wardrobe foundation and then build on the possibilities."

As designers are inventing newer ways to wear the white classic, a variety of unconventional shirting material has invaded the scene. From lycra and nylons to net and see-throughs, the medium seems to be dictating style.

On the one hand, there are the itsy-bitsy adaptations of blouses and on the other, there are shirt-styled jackets which are catching on with college kids. Fun and fantasy merge with tank tops combined with transparent, printed or edged chiffon shirts.

For a more dressier look, there is nothing more impressive than tulle — a fine net fabric that can be used as a sheer covering over sexy cut-outs. From Bombay to Bangalore and Chennai to Calcutta, designers are all praise for this fabric.

"We are doing wonders with tulle," asserts Delhi-based designer Arjun Khanna. "With men, the banded collars and cuffs are extremely hip, while women’s shirts can be tailored with shaping darts front and back, roll-back cuffs and three-quarter sleeves."

But then, a shirt does not make a statement by itself, unless coordinated correctly. As Fleur Xavier, another designer, puts it: "A lovely shirt can reflect individuality, taste and personality when matched with one’s skirt or trousers in colour, shape and size."

The general consensus is that the shirt’s enduring appeal makes it an essential wardrobe item for every man and woman. The bestsellers are always solid black and virgin white. For women, reds offer an additional option, particularly when they are body hugging and in sheer fabrics. — MF