Tempting Treks

Himachal Pradesh, on account of its topography and terrain, ranging from 460 metres to 6600 metres, offers abundant opportunities to those who are interested in savouring the delights and dangers, and the joys and hazards that trekking offers, writes Narinder Sharma

COME summer, and one would like to go to the hills, to escape the heat of the smoke-ridden and polluted metros, for leisure and recreation and for undertaking some adventure-oriented activities like trekking and mountaineering. Himachal Pradesh, on account of its topography and terrain, ranging from 460 metres to 6600 metres, offers abundant opportunities to those who are interested in savouring the delights and dangers, and the joys and hazards that trekking offers us. Himachal’s luscious verdure, rocky passes, meadows and the changing hues of its glaciers create in one an overwhelming desire to return to the hills again and again.

Just one trek in the western Himalayas, and you will never want to spend your holidays any other way. The unhurried absorption of surrounding scenery and the sheer delight of moving through the valleys linger in one’s memory for a long time to come.

Most of the treks are operational from mid- May to mid-October. However, the Department of Mountaineering and Allied Sports in Manali and its regional centres in Dharamsala and Bharmour and the HPTDC in Shimla may be contacted for information about any trek in the state. Here are a few suggestions which may prove helpful in planning your itinerary:

The first thing to consider is the time at your disposal and what do you want to see and experience. You can trek for three days, seven days, 15 days or even longer. You may march 12 km or 15 km a day, stay in rest houses and enjoy the beauty of the countryside or you may want take a tent and a sleeping bag.

Another thing that requires attention is the equipment needed on the trek. The less particular you are about this matter the happier you will be. There is hardly any need to have crampons, snow boots, ropes, expensive tents, food boxes etc., if you are doing small and easy treks in the low altitude valleys of Kangra, Kulu, Shimla and Sirmour hills. You may carry your own rucksack and eat whatever the countryside provides or you can hire a number of porters and ponies to carry your camping equipment and provisions. Travelling light has obvious advantages as you are free to enjoy the beauty of nature and do not have to devote too much attention to the luggage.

Trekking affords an opportunity to come into contact with the local inhabitants and enables one to understand their traditions and customs. This interaction imparts richness to your wanderings and makes your trip memorable.

For trekking, Himachal Pradesh can be divided into four regions: Kulu-Manali, Lahaul-Spiti, Shimla-Kinnaur, and Chamba-Kangra.

The Kulu-Manali region and the Lahaul and Spiti areas possibly offer the best short and long trekking tracts. Manali is the most popular place to begin or end a trek in the state. Trails out of Manali lead to passes connecting Chamba and Lahaul’s Chandra valley. Manali is also the trailhead for many walks and excursions which can be completed in one or more days.

Manali-Hamta Pass-Chandratal trek: Manali to Chandratal (4270m) is one of the finest treks in Himachal Pradesh, which can be completed in six days. The trek can be extended to Keylong after crossing the Baralacha Pass (4890m). Upon leaving Manali, cross the bridge over the Beas, and follow the path to Jagatsukh. As you approach the Hamta Pass, rocks and boulders slope down from the flanks in a magnificent sweep. The route descends rapidly down to Chhatru where a grassy patch above the Chandra river offers a good camping place. Batal is situated at the foot of the Kunzam Pass. The view from the top of the pass is enthralling.

On way is the Shigri glacier, a huge archway of solid ice, a kilometre wide and extending over a distance of 10 km.

The Chandratal Lake (4270 metres) is situated on a large meadow between a low ridge and the main Kunzam range. From there you get a beautiful view of the Samudra Tapoo glacier and the Mulkila range. The trek can be extended to Baralacha Pass from where you could return to Keylong, the district headquarters of Lahaul and Spiti. The bazaar at Keylong is well stocked. Accommodation is available at the PWD rest house and the reasonably furnished HPTDC tourist bungalow. Tents are put up to meet the increased demand for accommodation during the summer season. If time permits, a visit should be made to Sha Shur monastery, 2000 feet above the town from where you get a wonderful view of snowy ranges and enormous glacial fields.

Manali-Chandrakhani-Malana: This trek starts from Naggar which is 27 km from Manali on the left bank of the Beas river and affords a commanding and extensive view of the mountains and valleys. The ancient castle now converted into a HPTDC hotel, Roerick Art gallery and some ancient temples are the main attractions at this delightful place. The journey from Naggar to the Chandrakhani Pass, at points a strenuous trek and at places a pleasant walk, affords a fascinating picture of the verdant surroundings and the rugged grandeur. Near the pass, numerous clumps of rhododendron and other varieties of flowering shrubs add to the beauty of the upland pastures.

You get a striking view of Deo Tibba (6000m) and other snow giants from the top of the pass. The downward trek from Chandrakhani to Malana, although tough at times, affords unforgettable vistas of mountain scenery. Accessible only during that period of the year when the snow melts, Malana is perhaps one of the greatest curosities of Kulu as the inhabitants keep entirely to themselves. These villagers do not marry outside their village. They speak a language which no one but they themselves can comprehend. The people of this village comprise a small conservative community of probably less than 500 people, steeped in superstition. Jamlu, a local god of Kulu is the presiding deity of this village. Malana is also reputed to be the oldest democracy in the world. The trek can be extended beyond Malana into the Parbati valley.

Banjar-Bashleo Pass-Narkanda: This is again one of the finest treks in Himachal Pradesh. The first stop is Bandal, 8 km from Banjar, with a cosy resthouse tucked away on a hillside. Trout fishing can be done in the clear pools of Goshiani. There is an interesting legend connected with the Gara Durga temple in Goshiani. It is believed that Goshiani was the lovely daughter of Thakur, who had hired a mason for the construction of his house. The mason did such good work that the Thakur promised to give him whatever he asked for. The mason asked for Goshiani, who needless to say, found the match extremely unsuitable. One day as she sat by the banks of the Thirthan, it drew her mercifully down into its cool depths and she turned into a devi. The temple is built of wood and is decorated with fascinating cravings.

There is a gentle climb from Bandal to Bathad, but from there onwards there is a back-breaking climb up to the Bashleo Pass. The altitude of the pass is 3250 metres. The rest house at Sarahan, 3 km from the pass, is situated on the cliff of a hill. For mountaineering, the Srikand Mahadev peak 5155mt offers a panoramic view. Arsu and Rampur Bushahar are the next two halts. A Buddhist temple with a giant prayer wheel and a temple are main attractions at Rampur Bushahar, once a princely state, where Lavi, the biggest trade fair of the hills is held every year in November. From here either you can proceed to Shimla or continue your trek to Banjar over the Jalori Pass after reaching Ani by bus.

The distance from Ani to Khanag is 16 km and the Jalori Pass is 6 km. Shoja is the next halt where you will get to see houses of a peculiar architecture. The rest house is located amid scenic surroundings. The 12-km stretch from Shoja to Banjar involves a descent of 4000 feet. At certain seasons of the year, in the fading afternoon light, the mountain appears to be enveloped in a haze of blue which tends to soften all harsh outlines and gives an ethereal glow to distinctive landmarks, one of which is a group of temples on a hill above Banjar village.

Sarahan-Sangla: Kinnaur, the north-east frontier district of the state, is a secluded and rugged region. Three mountain ranges, namely the Laskar, the Great Himalayas and the Dhauladhar and many snow-clad peaks over 6000 metres high cross this area. As per mythology Kinners (the actual inhabitants) are considered to be a distinct race, somewhere between human beings and the gods. The epics describe them as heavenly musicians. Sarahan, well known for its Bhimakali temple and a soccer ground which is reputed to be the highest in the world, is the base for undertaking short and long trekking adventures. From here you can reach Karchham. Sapni, 8 km away, is a sloppy place with green pastures. The next three halts are Barua (8km), Chasu (13km), and Dumer (7km). After crossing the 3980-metre-high Shibling Pass and camping at Sangla Kanda, you reach Mupa, 12 km from the Sangla camp on the bank of the Baspa. Sangla, a populous village, built on a slope with houses rising one above the other, is famous for its ancient monasteries and highly fertile soil. Mt Kinner Kailash, whose five or six peaks rise above 6000 metres, majestically towers over Sangla.

Baspa is one the most beautiful and enchanting valleys in Himachal Pradesh with green pastures on either side, richly cultivated fields and meadows full of flowers and fruit trees. If you have a day to spare, visit Kamru fort, a lofty square structure built of dressed stones bound at small intervals with wooden beams. The enthronement ceremony of rulers of the erstwhile Bushahar state used to be performed there.

Chamba-Sach Pass-Pangi: Named after a fair princess and reminiscent of a tree with fragrant flowers, Chamba evokes romantic feelings among people who admire this jewel of the Himalayas. Chamba provides ideal opportunities for trekking because it has three well defined snowy ranges, Dhauladhar constituting the outer Himalayas; Pangi or Pir Panjal which is the mid-Himalayas and the Laskar which is the inner Himalayas. The trek leads you to the Pangi valley over the 3000 metre high Sach Pass known for its pretty faces, beautiful dances and scenic splendour. You may continue your trek either to Udeypur in the Pattan valley of Lahaul or to Kishtwar in Jammu and Kashmir. Another trek from Chamba goes to Manimahesh. On the way to Manimahesh is situated Bharmour, known for its richly carved ancient temples. It is also a base for undertaking trekking to many places in the Lahaul valley.

Dharamsala in the picturesque Kangra valley is the best place to undertake trekking to Chamba Bharmour and Bara Bhangal over the majestic Dhauladhar range which remains covered with a snow almost the whole year.