Celebrating the Indian look
By Pinky Adil

INDIAN fashion is gradually going global. Last year, Fendi used Rajasthani mirror-work to adorn some of its baguette-shaped handbags. This year, Gucci’s Tom Ford is running Indian brocades to jazz up his jeans.

The latest issue of Vogue has Dolce and Gabbana recommending embroidered pashmina shawls and straw handbags with mirror-work for an "authentic Indian look". Not to be left behind, the cover story of Newsweek has Madonna and Gwen Stefani sporting bindis.

These are just some of the indications of how elements of Indian fashion are finding increasing acceptance internationally. Yet, where everybody has been going wrong is in the understanding of what constitutes "ethnic chic".

It is a much-abused expression and even more misleading in its application. Many Indians are just as confused about it and would imagine that a salwar-kammez ensemble or a saree would pass for "ethnic chic". Surely, the Indian fashion industry has grown beyond these basics.

Start with the accessories. Get hold of a pair of beaded shoes and an embroidered leather (or even a cloth) handbag. Add them to your usual black number and see how they would change your look dramatically.

There are also little add-ons — bindis for the forehead, mehndi (henna) on the palms, tattoo markings on the wrist or upper arms... Body painting with typical Indian motifs can also make the vital difference.

For jewellery, your best bet should be folk or tribal ornaments — multiple ear-studs, an exotic nose ring, white banjara bangles and silver payals (anklets). The gypsy look is very much in, but with a bit of restraint, the effect can even be classy.

If you are more adventurous, try obtaining some bandhini (tie-and-dye prints from Rajasthan) from your fabric store. Add a few brocade trimmings to you trousers and for an evening out, perhaps make a small brocade camisole to wear inside a jacket.

And if you have an old pair of comfortable mules that you do not want to throw out, have them re-heeled and covered with a piece of brocade. These days, it is not enough that you look right. You should feel right — and comfortable.

From the bandhini fabric, stitch yourself a few loose shirts and blouses. Men are also known to sport bandhini shirts under their suits! The best combination though, is to wear bandhini with embroidered jackets or waistcoats.

Much as every designer is talking about an overkill of pashminas, there is a simple way to update last year’s shawl. Add embroidery to them, mirror work, beads or even simple cross-stitches and it will give the shawl a new lease of life.

Old sarees can be cut up and made into trousers, which may be offset with a plain jacket or a tunic top. Saree pallus and borders make wonderful shirt collars and cuffs, yokes for kameezes and even, serve as good patchwork material.

Men too can have as many options to update their wardrobes in a bid to look more Indian. For instance, wear a kurta-style top with a pair of jeans and coordinate with slip-ons, mojris or kolhapuri sandals.

Those who like to be really funky could add a brocade trimming to their jeans. And remember, everything does not necessarily have to match. A printed or embroidered dupatta can serve as a wrap for a black dress or perhaps tied as a turban!

The idea is to let your imagination run wild and have some fun while updating your wardrobe. That is the essence of Indian fashion, as against the structured formalities of western wear. Even western casuals do not provide the scope for interpretation that ethnic Indian wear does.

The best part is some of the fabrics can be used to make your home look ethnic too. Throw some colourful, embroidered cushions on to a plain sofa. Take an old jamavar shawl and use it as a wall hanging. Or offset your cream Italian sofa with some bright red and blue brocade cushions.

And viola, you are ethnic chic! (MF)