Make a romantic statement this spring
By Anjana Sarin

FOR those into designing and merchandising, fashion is serious business. But for everybody else, it can be plain fun — an expression of being with the times and living it up, in style.

Gone are the days when the hippie look, or folk chic was considered fashionable. The trend is now for clean and simple lines that are not only glamorous, but carry a spring-time feel as well.

So greys and blacks have made way for a new drama of colours with soft pastels, ecru, reds, yellows, oranges, celestial blues, off-whites and pristine white dominating.

And then, it’s not just colours that are making a celebration of feminity. It is also the silhouette — softer shapes in crepe, georgette and stretch fabric, embellished with a dash of shimmer.

Bombay-based designer duo Arshya and Aaliya have captured the spirit of the season with a sporty range of evening wear: knee-length and ankle-length skirts, cargo pants, singlets and drawstring trousers. Reviving the sensation of flower power of the sixties, they have created a pretty, icy pink Barbie doll ensemble.

For that stamp of individuality, they are recommending stylish sun-glasses and scarves. Some are even suggesting matching footwear, bags, belts and head gear to add that extra zing!

Designer Jay Ramrakhiani carries the feel-good sentiment in his latest collection. ‘Dress Like a Lady.’ It has a lot of cute, seamless tops and side-pleated dresses, both with and without sleeves.

Detailing for the garments brings back the long dresses of the forties with high slits at the side. Prints are limited to small, off-white flowers against a background of pastel shades.

To coordinate with the tops, Jay has both fitted trousers and Capri pants. Skirts make an appearance with structured jackets. He has loose, flowing trousers as well to complete the look.

The neckline plays an important part here with detailed pleating and a Wallace collar, which can be turned into shawl collar. Ice mint and blushing pink mingle with lime green and soft beige in light fabrics ranging from butter crepe and shimmering silk.

Shaina N.C., another designer, is also intent upon making a romantic statement this spring. She is coming up with singlets in colours like pista, mist and lemon in velvet and lycra which can be teamed with-around sarong skirts of the same fabric. Knee-length silk shirts also feature prominently in her collection. These are in biscuit beige and sky-blue ("red is not a good colour this season") and can be teamed with either salwars or loose trousers.

Yet another designer in the same league is Wendell Rodricks. His styles are for "the young and petite as well as the old and mature woman" with lots of separates in shades of ivory, but no red.

He has mixed fabrics like linen and silk with a jamewar weave and cotton to create a gypsy, tribal look out of Capri pants with 34" to 35" tunics, skirts with slits and trousers, which are ankle-length.

Wendell is now planning to add his trade-mark American shirt dresses with short cap sleeves (or even sleeveless) which can be accessorised by patchwork stoles.

As for ethnic wear, sarees make an appearance, but crinkled, in shades of dusty pink and pale green. Blouses are in sheer, pleated fabrics with prominent detailing in buttons, fringes, and tiny blanket stitches.

There are also attempts to combine elements from sarees, salwar-kameezes and ghagra-cholis to create newer interpretations in fusion wear. Most of these are in linen and synthetic blends, matched with scarves or stoles in shades like smoked grey.

For the teeny-boppers, there is a variety of short tops with detailing like pin tucks and sheer tunics that can be worn with pleated camisoles. As usual, these are teamed with trousers and long scarves.

In all this, what matters ultimately is the feel — fabrics like soft twills, piques, cotton lycra, cotton viscose and poly viscose which can set the mood and in effect, create a lasting fashion experience. — MF