Shikharas, mandaps, gompas of Himachal
By Narinder Sharma

PERHAPS no part of India offers such variety of temple architecture spread over a small area as does Himachal Pradesh. Numbering about 6000 in all, these temples are broadly of six types viz. shikhara, pagoda, mandap (dome-shaped), flat-roofed, gompas and caves. Shikhara, dome-shaped and flat-roofed temples are found in the lower areas while pent-roofed and pagoda temples are located in the middle areas and gompas in the higher regions of the state.

The temples of Masrur, Baijnath, Bajaura and Chamba (Lakshminarain) are fine examples of shikhara style of architecture. They are supposed to have been built in 8th, 9th and 10th centuries AD. These temples combine the features of northern and southern styles. At Masrur, some 35 kilometres from Dharamsala, there is a group of 15 monolithic rock-cut temples, profusly decorated with sculptures, conceived in the same manner as the great temple of Kailash at Ellora in Maharashtra. These temples have been hewn out of a rock measuring about 45 metres in length and 31.5 metres in breadth. The main shrine, known as Thakurdwara, contains three stone images of Lord Rama, Lakshmana and Sita, perhaps introduced in recent times. The temple appears to have been originally dedicated to Lord Shiva. The placid waters in the masonry tank opposite the cave temple reflects the beauty of this shrine, which stands surmounted by eight subsidiary shrines — the ashta turivasas. Shiva temples at Triloknath (Kangra) and Baba Deot Sidh are also fine examples of cave temples.

Built in mid-eighth century, the Basheshar Mahadev temple at Bajaura, near Kulu, consists of a square bulging tower (shikhara), the outer surface of which is covered with carvings above and decorative motifs below. The shikhara is a gem of artistic craftsmanship combined with architectural ingenuity. The temple spire has a pleasing curvilinear shape and is of Panchratha type with a large amalka sila on top. The Trilokinath temple in the Pattan valley of Lahaul, which is another name of Avalokiteshvara (a bodhisattava), contains a six-armed image of the lord in white marble.

The Gauri Shankar temple in Naggar village is a charming example of the architecture and carvings built of gray sandstone belonging to the 11th or 12th century. In a small clearing of the forest, not far from the ruins of Thawa, is the temple of Murlidhar, probably the oldest of its type in the Kulu valley.

Perched like some medieval Italian fortress on a flat mountain shelf, overhanging the rushing torrent of the Ravi river, the town of Chamba is famous for its temples. It is so sheltered by snow-clad mountain barriers that its monuments escaped destruction at the hands of iconoclasts. The valley of the Ravi still contains numerous well-preserved temples and some unique brass images of excellent workmanship. Richly carved and tastefully engraved, the main group of six temples — three dedicated to Lord Shiva and three to Lord Vishnu — clustered around the Lakshminarain temple throw light on Chamba’s glorious art . Enshrined in an 11th-century temple of Hari Rai, is an exquisite bronze image of Chaturmurti (Vishnu with four arms), remarkable for its naturalistic modelling. Besides these temples, other shikhara temples in Chamba are the 8th-century Barjeshwari Devi temple and the 9th-century Bansi Gopal temple.

Bharmour, the ancient capital of Chamba, is known for its temples of Manimahesh, Lakshna Devi, Ganesha and Narsingha, all built in 7th century. They are still in a remarkably good state despite the passage of time. The monumental Manimahesh shrine, the largest in Bharmour, has a high beehive top in the Pratihara style and a huge yoni. The brass image of Nandi bears an inscription of Meru Varman. The idol of Ganesha in this stone temple is awe-inspiring, while the ashtdatu statue of Narsingh, an incarnation of Vishnu, compels one to lower one’s head in reverence. This temple (9th — 10th century) has a pyramidal roof with a small porch in front, which is enclosed by a massive wall.

Dedicated to Shiva, the temples of Trilokinath, Panchvaktra, and Bhutnath in Mandi are all in shikhara style, and are of immense archaeological interest. The Trilokinath temple (1500 AD) contains a life-size, three-faced stone image of Shiva, riding a bull with Parvati in his lap. The main image in the Panchvaktra (the Five-faced One) temple near the confluence of the Beas and the Saketi, is of interest since the five images are not placed in one row as is usually the case with polycephalic statues, but in such a way that the fourth face is on the reverse side of the slab. However, the most popular shrine in Mandi is that of Bhutnath who is venerated as the guardian of the town and represents Shiva as the Lord of Creatures. Its porch is supported by fluted pillars. Of the modern temples in Mandi, the finest one from an artistic standpoint is the sanctuary of Ardhnari, the stone image of which represents Shiva and his divine consort Parvati, the right half being devoted to the former and the left to the latter.

A peculiar feature of the shikhara-style temple at Balag, near Shimla, which contains a Shivalinga, is the umbrella-shaped canopy of wood around the sun-disc which forms the top of the spire. There are impressive carvings above the entrance with sloping rows of wooden pendants.

Dating back to 7th-8th century, the Hateshwari (Durga) temple at Hatkoti, on the banks of the Pabbar, belongs to the classical shikhara style and has an exquisitely sculpted brass image of the goddess. The temple has rich and variegated wood carvings which include figures of gods and goddesses.

Among the early wooden temples of Himachal Pradesh, mention may be made of the Lakshana Devi temple at Bharmour, Shakti Devi temple at Chhatrari, and Mrikula Devi Temple at Udeypur in Lahaul. The remarkable feature of the 8th-century Lakshna Devi temple is its wooden architecture. It bears an affinity to the architecture of Kashmir and Gandhara and shows traces of classical influence, peculiar to the monuments of the north-west. Inside there is a rectangular mandapa interlinked by railings on both sides. Behind the mandappa is the sanctum, enshringing the brass image of the goddess. Regarded as one of the most holy spots in the western Himalayas, the Shakti Devi temple built in 8th century is surrounded by an open pradakshina path supported by twelve massive columns. Images of Lakshna Devi and Shakti Devi, sculpted by master craftsman Gugga, are considered as two of the finest bronze statues in the world. The temple of Mrikula belonging to the 10th-11th century is highly remarkable for its wood carvings.

Pagodas offer a peculiar construction design. Their pyramidal structure with tiered roofs distinguish these from other Himalayan temples. Some of these temples are Hidimba Devi at Manali, Tripura Sundri at Naggar, Triyugi Narayan at Dayar and Adi Brahma at Khokhan. Erected on a small clearance of dense deodars the Hidimba temple was founded in 1553 AD. It has square roofs in tiers of diminishing sizes above which is a kind of circular wooden cone, which is again surmounted by a brass well and a trident. The temple rises about 80 feet from the ground, but is not perpendicular.

In the upper part of Naggar, is the pagoda-shaped temple of Tripura Sundri Devi which has recently been renovated. Prashar temple, 35 km from Mandi, is a curiously attenuated, three-tiered pagoda temple. Beside a small lake with a circular floating island, it is known for the technical skill and sheer beauty of the decorative wood carvings on all its four sides, especially on its facade. The sanctum in the Bhimakali temple at Sarahan, some 170 km from Shimla, with elaborate silver doors, contains a fabulous collection of ancient bronzes of outstanding quality. In the courtyard is a small a medieval shikhara temple. Sungra and Usha temples in Nichar, and Chandika Devi (Kothi) are also in line with the pagoda style.

The Kamakshi Devi temple at Kao village in Karsog, is constructed on a rectangular platform with two pagoda-like structure capped by gilded amalka. Its upper roofs are covered with chiselled slates while below the eves are wooden pendants for ornamentation. This temple as well as the nearby Mamleshwar Mahadev temple house elegant sculptures of the late Pratihara period.

The Buddhist gompas or monasteries except those at Rewalsar and Rampur are confined to Lahaul Spiti and Kinnaur districts. Some massive monasteries have also been built in recent years at Dharamsala, Bir, Tashijong, Mandi, Shimla and Solan. Generally flat-roofed complexes, these monasteries are repositories of Buddhist faith. Some of the many interesting features of these flag-bedecked gompas are the huge barrel-like prayer drums, ornate paintings of saints and demons, giant-size statues of Buddha and representation of lesser divinities.

Associated with Guru Padma Sambhava, the Guru Ghantal monastery has a wooden structure with pyramidal roofs and interesting wood carvings. Across the bridge at Keylong, is situated the Karding monastery against the backdrop of bare mountain tops nestling in the lap of the Rangche. A thousand years old, Kye gompa, the largest in Spiti, consists of a large irregular heap of low rooms and narrow corridors, interconnected by dark passages and tortuous staircases, built on what must have been the crater of a now extinct volcano.

Flanked on either side by lofty hills, Tabo is the seat of one of the most famous Buddhist gompas, regarded by many as only next to the Tholing gompa in Tibet. The murals in this ancient monastery, are stylistically similar to those of Ajanta wall paintings. In Kinnaur, Kanam, Kalpa, Rangrich, Labrang, Sunam, Shalkar, and Thangi are some of the many well-known Buddhist gompas.

Mandap (dome-shaped) and flat-roofed temples are adaptations of Mughal and Sikh styles. These have been built in lower ranges of the Himachal Pradesh, where such an influence was predominant, the most famous being the pilgrim shrines of Jwalamukhi, Chintpurni, and Renuka Devi.